Here's what you do, go to Barnes and Noble and pick up a copy of Automotive Math, figure out the cfm rating for your engine. Each engine has its own because all an engine really is, is a vacuum. Then figure out what you really want to do with your car. Choose to build an engine for boost(nitro, turbo, or supercharger). Then start with your cam rpm rating, it needs to be for the purpose of what you eventually want in the end. Example-high end or low end, street or strip, both, or rally or what ever. Then get a torque converter or bulletproof trans with t/c. Then start to build. However the best gain of HP for the money is going to be N2O, but that is only short term because you have to pay to play(refill the bottle). In the long run it would be best to slowly buy everything to make a complete performance engine and then put it all together at once, if you can do it yourself then good, if not=more money. Like I said you have to figure out what you want, then build to suit. Make sure you have the spark, the supply of fuel and the supply and exit of air. That is it broken down.
The problem with intakes is this, they don't give you a gain in HP unless you also do a full exhaust, unless you only have one restrictive component in your exhaust and you remove it. But most of the time you need to do a whole performance exhaust from headers to tailpipe. I will probably sound better with an intake but in all actuallity you lose HP. I've had the chance to try these types of mods on cars then to put them on the dyno and see what happens. Then if you do get a lot of air coming in and a lot of air going out, your fuel system can't compensate at higher rpms and then runs lean and starts to detonate and destroy your engine.
The timing needs to be tuned also, which on our cars is controlled by the computer, so get your computer tuned, or the cheaper easier, but kinda wrong way to do it is to get an adjustable cam gear. Actually it isn't really wrong but it isn't really the best way either.
The DLL (drive line loss) in a front wheel drive vehicle is about 10-15%, rear wheel drive is about 15-25% depending on the set up. So your brake hp minus the %of loss is what your car probably puts out, also taking into account the mileage.
If anyone sees anything wrong here let me know, if not then I guess I still remember everything pretty well. Hope this helps. Any questions also let me know.
If everything is done right and complete and no short cuts, then you could see between 15sec and 11 sec, depending on mods, possibly 10sec in the Qtr Mile.
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Dyno it and lets find out! Real trucks don't have spark plugs! My lug nuts require more torque than your honda puts out!
I understand all that...i've decided what I'm gonna do..wel..what im NOT gonna do.. I already have the intake...Im gonna be doing an exhaust. I wont do anything to the engine really. when this engine wears out, I'll put a 3.0 or 3.5 in. then I'll do engine work. I'll put a manual tranny in when I do this also. I figure that its better to do things that way. then I'll see what's available then for the engine that I"m using. If chrysler develops a more powerful engine than the current 3.5, tthat will fit, then of course I'll use that instead. Ill get it polished and bored and all the works. THat way, I can get what I really want out of this car.
Well, I had bought a performance filter before, it improved a bit..but not that much...i switched it for a whole new intake system...I REALLY felt a difference there, it was said to give about 10-15hp, I also got this chip...installed it...sucked...but the installation instructions werent concise, so I redid it and felt even more power, about the same improvement as i did with the intake, so im guessin they put about the same amout on...I may have a lil more or a lil less than 185 tho, But thats a safe guess, I pretty confident that it's at least 185. Before any of these, I raced one of my friends who has the new eclipse (4 cylinder 162hp i believe)..it was close, and i was ahead by a lil bit. But i just wanted to know what is available for a 2.5L V6. It doesnt seem like there are that many mods for it but exterior...so im doin that right now.
you want that air intake to actually do something? get a custom header made for like $400 get the head ported and polished as well as the throttle body, intake mani, and plenum bored and port matched....then u can say like 185.....luckily for the 420a users companys like OBX sell performance packages that actually do what they say they will....like 500-600 dollars but still $600 for 190-210hp give or take how ur car was taken care of....that's not bad for an all motor avenger pushin it
well i KNOW i need a tune-up, i researched a LONG time about mods for the V6, read reviews, people who have tried, disbelieved, believed and i dont know what else. lemme ask tho. what is the quarter mile and 0-60 time for a stock V6 sebring?
I have a 97 Avenger, 2.5 with intake & exhaust and i ran a 16.22 at a local strip at 81 mph.
ive owned my 95 avenger for two years i live in michigan and ive looked everywhere for mods for my car...are they only sold online? i have only found an under drive pulley but it was for the 2.0L
i have never seen a pulley for the v6...also im porting the intake. all this work is mostly experimental to see what works....of course i cant say anything until ive been to the strip, headers would be nice..i wanna see what the downpipe does..a.long with the rest of my exhaust upgrade. My cai is gonna be a bit different...if it does anything i'll let u guys know.
Here's what you do, go to Barnes and Noble and pick up a copy of Automotive Math, figure out the cfm rating for your engine. Each engine has its own because all an engine really is, is a vacuum. Then figure out what you really want to do with your car. Choose to build an engine for boost(nitro, turbo, or supercharger). Then start with your cam rpm rating, it needs to be for the purpose of what you eventually want in the end. Example-high end or low end, street or strip, both, or rally or what ever. Then get a torque converter or bulletproof trans with t/c. Then start to build. However the best gain of HP for the money is going to be N2O, but that is only short term because you have to pay to play(refill the bottle). In the long run it would be best to slowly buy everything to make a complete performance engine and then put it all together at once, if you can do it yourself then good, if not=more money. Like I said you have to figure out what you want, then build to suit. Make sure you have the spark, the supply of fuel and the supply and exit of air. That is it broken down.
The problem with intakes is this, they don't give you a gain in HP unless you also do a full exhaust, unless you only have one restrictive component in your exhaust and you remove it. But most of the time you need to do a whole performance exhaust from headers to tailpipe.
doesnt this depend on the amount of backpressure produced @ the factory? also, since the wastegate of the block comes together into one, wouldnt headers reduce velocity of exhaust gases? wouldnt this cause somewhat of a reduction in low end torque? also, what if a dual exhaust was set up from block to muffler, wouldnt this in someway have the same effect as headers? also, i believe all these mods do something but nothing really gets u anywhere unless the whole system is modified being that they are all limited in some fashion. its like having a chain, its only as strong as its weakest link, so u can only do so much to the intake and exhaust before the pressure inside the engine gets maxed out to the point where it blows. cylinder porting would also help a lot with the correct induction and exhaust upgrades, so unless there are specific numbers for a given car, its hard to tell what a modification will do.
I will probably sound better with an intake but in all actuallity you lose HP. I've had the chance to try these types of mods on cars then to put them on the dyno and see what happens. Then if you do get a lot of air coming in and a lot of air going out, your fuel system can't compensate at higher rpms and then runs lean and starts to detonate and destroy your engine.
where does the detonation get nasty? i mean, thats the point of the fuel and air so do u mean an early detonation? or late detonation?
The timing needs to be tuned also, which on our cars is controlled by the computer, so get your computer tuned, or the cheaper easier, but kinda wrong way to do it is to get an adjustable cam gear. Actually it isn't really wrong but it isn't really the best way either.
getting a computer tuned..cost?...hp advantage? what exactly is done?
The DLL (drive line loss) in a front wheel drive vehicle is about 10-15%, rear wheel drive is about 15-25% depending on the set up. So your brake hp minus the %of loss is what your car probably puts out, also taking into account the mileage.
If anyone sees anything wrong here let me know, if not then I guess I still remember everything pretty well. Hope this helps. Any questions also let me know.
If everything is done right and complete and no short cuts, then you could see between 15sec and 11 sec, depending on mods, possibly 10sec in the Qtr Mile.
where does the detonation get nasty? i mean, thats the point of the fuel and air so do u mean an early detonation? or late detonation?
« Last Edit: September 13, 2006, 07:50:05 PM by JusBringIt »
would it be pointless to put 8mm wires on a stock engine an distributor cap..?
8mm wires are fine to use as long as your cap/button is in good shape. carbon build up on those reduces spark traveling to your plugs. check your cap/button while you're in the neighborhood so you don't spend $50+ on good wires to still have bad spark. One way of looking at it is if you give a 90 year old man a ferrari, he's still gonna drive just as slow as when he had the crown vic.
Company's that I've seen are good to go with: NGK (naturally and fine if that's all you use) Plugs AND wires Autolite Professional Series Wires
Umm...... damn. everyone else around where i live sucks. lol stay AWAY from bosch. don't know what it is but they foul out the best. if you really want i can send you the picture of the Bosch +4's I recently did a "Defect Return" on that were in a Nissan for less than 1 month. just send me your email.
I was under the impression that you couldn't put a manual tranny in a aoutomatic venge/bring. I asked this question on the old site and everyone told me it was impossible.
I was under the impression that you couldn't put a manual tranny in a aoutomatic venge/bring. I asked this question on the old site and everyone told me it was impossible.
oh its possible it's just that your looking at about $4000 for EVERYTHING parts and labor to do the swap. Anything is possible when it comes to cars. Think about it. We have cars that basically have jet engines in them. If they can make a 1.3L that proudly gives 255hp, then yeah, your tranny swap should be a piece of cake. HOWEVER, it's really just simpler to buy a stick or trade your auto for someones manual.
If anyone needs *COMPLETE* NADA VIN background checks PM me with the VIN. You have until DECEMBER 3! No charge, no strings, just gimme good karma afterwards. I work on an honor system. your word is your honor.
im not sure bout the 6cyl bring/venge but with the 4 cyl version it is absolutly possible to put in a 5 speed as they made a 5 speed version of this car. also you can pull a 5 speed tranny out of an eclipse/talon where as they are basically the same car.
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