I haven't had much to post about lately but the time has come and I finally got my built block back from Concept Illusions. Here's the specs on the block and guts: Clevite Rod Bearings, Clevite Main Bearings, Wiseco pistons 0.020 over 8.8:1 compression, Cometic Head gasket, Melling Oil Pump, Eagle Connecting Rods, ARP head studs and a new water pump. The block was obviously bored 0.020 over for the pistons, the head was hot tanked.
I also picked up a few other things from them while I was at it. I got a OBX high flow cat, a flex section for my down pipe, an EGR block off kit, new radiator hoses (blue) to match my intercooler couplers, timing belt kit and prothane motor mount inserts. I also picked up a SPEC clutch from disturbingavenger. I think with this setup and my other acquisition, a Garrett T3 turbo off an 86 Thunderbird with a manual transmission. The specs on it are 0.60 inlet and 0.63 exhaust.
I'll see you next weekend, to finish up that thing.
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James 1996 Dodge Avenger 2.4L Hybrid - RETIRED 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Comp-G - SOLD 1999 Dodge Avenger 5spd all stock, Daily Driver 1995 Nissan 240sx Project Car
Glad you got your engine on a roll. Now to finish the head completely and add a HUGE turbo set up!! What method are you using to break it in?? I plan on doing a whole engine build, so I'd like to know what you do and how it works.
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titan-racing.com Medialocker.org
Mod List. Um WAY too many to fit on here. But the engine can handle about 800HP
The head just needs torqued down, most of the hardware that was bolted to the old motor is already attached to the new one. As for the turbo the one I just got is a big jump from my little IHI RHB52. I asked the guy at the shop what he recommended as far as breaking in the motor. First of all he said to not go into boost while breaking it in. Secondly, don't drive it hard for 1,000 miles. He said just drive "normally" and change your oil at 500 miles and again at 1,000 miles. He also said to use conventional oil for those first 1,000 miles then switch to synthetic. After that the motor should be broken in and ready to go. Personally I would like some other opinions on breaking in a motor. I know there are a million and one ways to do it and I want to do it properly, so if someone has an opinion please share.
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Kevin '98 Venge ES 5-Speed ASOG Bo0sT jUnKiE CREW Dodge made it pretty, I made it fast(er).
I've read a few different things, but I wanted to hear it from someone on the boards. I just want to know how each theory worked out when put into practice
I'm still not sure what to do in order to break in a motor correctly, but I do know for sure what not to do.
I put in a new Crank, Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Eagle H-beam Rods, Keith Black Pistons, Sealed Power Rings, Melling Oil Pump, Water Pump, Timing Belt, Bored Throttle Body, 4-2-1 Header, Short Throw Shifter and an OBX Underdrive Pulley.
I was told by friends (ex friends) to break it in "just like you plan to drive it." To say I ran it hard is an understatement. Everyday was race day. Me vs. the Stopwatch!
Six weeks and 6,500 miles later... I pulled the motor back out and put in a new crank, main bearings, rod bearings and rings!
Well, I finally got everything bolted together and finally up and running. I began driving from my parents house (where I was doing the work) back to my house and the clutch went out on it, so now it gets to come all apart again. Oh joy is me.
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Kevin '98 Venge ES 5-Speed ASOG Bo0sT jUnKiE CREW Dodge made it pretty, I made it fast(er).
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