I started the car and it ran for about 4 seconds then shut off. Usually it would just start back up, and I would rev it a little until it settled. but this time it just turned over with no start. Every once in a while it would stop at a red light and I would just restart it. But now it just turns over. So far I've done the following:
Checked the air filter sprayed carborator cleaner in the intake pumped gas pedal while trying to start Checked battery terminals for acid and good connection
Car's mileage? Year? Battery Tested? Alternator Tested? How long have you been experiencing this? Do you know where your Crankshaft Position Sensor is? Have you had the OBDII scanned [96+ and whether the light is on or off]? When was the last time the Timing had been paid attention to? Does it do this any other time aside from stopping at a redlight/idle?
I ask these, because everyone else will also. It's better for me to get the bulk of them out of the way now.
These are the possibilities i'm thinking of right now: IAC Sensor [Idle Air Control] Fuel pump/pressure regulator Loose Sensor. Possibly the CPS or the Camshaft sensor.
You have an Interference Engine which means, if the timing goes.... be ready to cry.
Pumping the pedal will do you no good except give your calve and thigh a workout. You have an electric pump, not a mechanical. carburetor cleaner is a big no no for throttle bodies. It's simply just too harsh for the system. That's why they make 3 different formula's: carb, throttle, and MAF Sensor cleaner.
Its a 96 sebring lxi coupe with 98,000. Didn't get a chance to test the alternator but I turned on the lights and rolled the windows up and down. I experienced it about twice a day for about 2 months, but it always started back up.
I do not know where the camshaft sensor is however. I had the timing belt changed when I replaced the water pump and I checked to see if the fuel pump was on yesterday by listening for it when I turn the key to the on position. It only did it when I'm at a light or in stopping position.
hmm. basically when you're stopping or in park right?
It's starting to sound more like the IAC. Once they go completely, it's almost impossible to get past them without replacing. Have you tried holding the pedal all the way down to the floor board as you try to crank it? not pumping, but a solid hold. Most IAC's can be gotten past temporarily by keeping the rpm above 2500. Most. Once you locate it, check the wiring [especially where the harness is] for any corrosion or needing to be cleaned.
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