I have had my car about two months and it has had the same problem the whole time. If you come up on a corner in second at around 2500-3000 rpms, and roll into the throttle at the apex, the moment you start to feel the weight transfer, the car stalls (right corner usually). I checked to make sure the batter wasnt moving or shorting out. The CmPS is fine, it has a new connector on it I soldered and sealed my self. The Check Engine light is on, but is only storing an code that says EGR Restriction. I have cleaned it once and cleared it, it just came back on and is reading the same code. The timing belt is good, and all is in proper time, not off half tooth or anything. I replaced the fuel pump, and gave it a full tune up(plugs wires, PCV, blah blah blah).
I was wondering if these cars are equipped with a roll over switch, or an inertia switch. I reaching out at this point.
420A, 5-speed, 123,000 miles, CAI, Flo-Pro Max muffler.
When it dies, it almost feels like it is either losing spark or the injectors are shutting off. But I have no way to test this when it happens, since it only last a second or two.
HELP HELP HELP!!!!!!!
Civic's are making me look bad, they catch me in the corner.
make sure your battery is tightly strapped down. You take a right, putting pressure on the left side of you car, causing the battery to hit the hood and short out.
Just a guess.
Logged
titan-racing.com Medialocker.org
Mod List. Um WAY too many to fit on here. But the engine can handle about 800HP
I just got a battery hold down put on the car. I'll give it a shot tomarrow, I never thought to look at that, but there is still insulation on the bottom side of my hood? wouldnt that keep it from arcing, there is no marks?
I just got a battery hold down put on the car. I'll give it a shot tomarrow, I never thought to look at that, but there is still insulation on the bottom side of my hood? wouldnt that keep it from arcing, there is no marks?
Yeah if there is insulation, and no bare metal then there is no real chance of it connecting. It's very likely a short, especially if it only happens in turns. This may sound like an idiot check, but I have no idea how good you are with cars, but check your oil. If it's low and you take tight turns especially to the right (the knock sensor is on the right and when you turn right the oil will go to the left) it may push the oil away from the sensor. Causing the computer to kill the motor to prevent damage.
Logged
titan-racing.com Medialocker.org
Mod List. Um WAY too many to fit on here. But the engine can handle about 800HP
To check if it's the battery shorting in the corner just do it with your dome lights on and see if they go out (or flicker) momentarily when you throw it into the turn.
Have any of us [aside from me] ever done a power slide with the e-brake at like 35-45 mph? Whenever i did it on my white avenger [99] and my 95 240sx, they would want to shut off almost. it was like the sudden change in inertia was a choker.
Well, with the battery secure, it is still acting up. I am not low on oil, maybe the knock wensor is bad. Is the knock sensor a normally open or closed switch, so I can temporarily by-pass it, just to eliminate that possiblity.
I have read up on a couple of different places, and they say something about 1996 Avengers having a baad batch of comupters. This bugged me since mine is a 96. What is that all about? Could that be my problem?
hmm. have you checked to make sure that the connector for the computer is nice and solid and also clean? if you take it off, use electrical connector cleaner and then dielectric grease [you can get a 1 shot pack at the parts store if your out for about $1]. If nothing else, at least it's something to check.
Checked the Connection at the ECU, all looked good. Used dielectric grease on the connector, still giving fits. I talked to an old guy in town that says he has had a few chrysler products come in to his shop that claimed to die in similar circumstances, he replaced the crank position sensor and it cleared it all up. I am going to do this next, but I am afraid that it will just be a waist of $70.
Oops, my bad. I was in a hurry when I typed it and didn't take time to proof read.
Anyway,
I changed both the CmPS and CrPS, still have the same problem. I went through all the grounds again. I even got desperate and jacked up the one side of the car to see if I could get what ever it was doing it to move. Car purred like a kitten, until I drove it around another right hand corner. I'm going to try a different ECU and see what happens.
Author
Logged
