Really. I was wondering if i might have gotten one that was bad from the factory. I caouldn't figure out any other reason why it would do what it is doing. I almost bought one yesterday, but the guy at the counter talked me out of it, said there's no way it could be that. I should have gotten the part anyway. I'll pick one up tomarrow after work.
I was about to pull the tank and look at the roll over valves, grasping for what ever I could. I'm desperate, and can't think straight anymore. I think I'm slowly goin insane.
Anyway, if that fixes my car, a six pack of your flavor is yours.
but the guy at the counter talked me out of it, said there's no way it could be that.
You didn't go to Autozone did you? Any sensor that is broken internally and has a possibility of flexing slightly or moving slightly can give off a false reading. For example, my driverside door jamb switch can be wiggled a little [grab the rubber part, and just pull on the rubber] and it will stop beeping with my key in the switch or with my lights on.
Just because a sensor doesn't fail ALL the time, doesn't mean that it's not bad.
Yeah, thats what I was thinking, and yes it was autozone. (kicked myself in the @$$)
Anyway, I resplaced the CrPS again and still the same. Now it gave me code 43 for a multiple cylinder misfire. I pulled all the plugs to inspect since I am running Bosch still, they all look fine. I reapplied di-electric grease to the wires, then cleaned the IAC. I am stumped.
I found a broken vacuum line going to my EVAP system and fixed it, still no change. I am out of ideas. Is there anything left for me to check into? I really don't want to take the car in and drop all that cash to fing out it was something stupid, like worn muffler bearings, or low turn signal fluid (joke, I know better).
I've been doing the wiggle test just about every day looking for a sign of what might be wrong.
I'm wondering if my coil pack might be shorting out or something. According to the Codes List on this site, the only thing I haven replaced or really thoroughly verified is the coil pack. What are the chances of the coil pack coming apart and/or shorting out?
I bought a new one already, it didn't change anything. Im going to start checking the harness wire by wire, inch by inch. It seems that it has to be a shorted wire. Is th ere any specific place that ussually faults?
Well, I changed the relays, both, just to make me feel better. No change. Wiring harness is about all I have left. I'm going to go get another one and swap them out I guess, or try to find a broken wire. Just trying to avoid the long drawn out process of checking it.
I sent the car to Chyrsler. They were nice enough to charge me $225 for a soda can between my EGR Valve and the head. Oh and they told me that my fuel pressure is dropping to ten pounds when it dies cutting a hard right, but the pump stays on. I was going to put a fuel pressure regulator on it. I bought one, then couldn't find it. Where is at?
I did find a relief valve mounted to a block just after the fuel filter, did I mention that the fuel filter that came off of it was for a turbo car. Boggled me, took a minute to figure it out. Anyway, this relief valve only shows up in that parts stores for a V-6. What's the deal. One store says its the pressure regulator, another, the relief valve.
I need to know which this is, and if there is a different regulator somwhere else that I need to check
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