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Jeff
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96 avenger dying
« on: January 25, 2006, 12:02:17 AM »

I have a '96 avenger and something is seriously wrong. It's electrical, so I assume  Huh Cylinders 1, 3 and 5 have multiple misfires according to advanced discount auto parts little hand held engine code reader. It idles erratically, if I get on the gas hard it wont go anywhere, it will shudder later on around 45-65 mph, and the engine makes a 'puff' or 'whoosh' type sound when I have it in park listening to it. The mechanic in my area doesn't know how to fix it only that it's electrical and he's stumped. I need serious help people! Please! Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated!

I took it to this mechanic a little bit ago for the same problem. He gave it a serious tune up. Spark plugs, distributor cap, spark plug wires, filters... the works! He also replaced the downpipe because it was rusted to the cat converter because it got clogged when it was messing up. It ran fine for a day or two and then slowly went back to the same problem. He is charging me for both visits of course even tho his work was only a temp fix. I know it's not all by the book and easy when you're a mechanic but I have limited funds also.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2006, 12:07:51 AM by Jeff » Logged
Darktengu
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Re: 96 avenger dying
« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2006, 12:08:00 AM »

It's a six so I'm not a lot of help with it.  But from other readings on it, I'd check your distributor.  If it was an I4 I'd say have a mechanic check your timing.  That will cause misfire codes.
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Jeff
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Re: 96 avenger dying
« Reply #2 on: January 25, 2006, 12:09:30 AM »

The distributor has been a problem in the past. I have a life time warranty on it from autozone. Would checking the timing be a bad thing to do anyway even tho it's a 6cyl?
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Re: 96 avenger dying
« Reply #3 on: January 25, 2006, 12:18:03 AM »

First I'd bring the distributor back into Autozone, and the have the timing checked.  Again I'm more of the four guy maybe one of the V6 members would be more helpful.  But have the distributor tested first.
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Re: 96 avenger dying
« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2006, 03:15:38 AM »

yeah definitley have that distibutor looked at. I had the same problem a while back after replacing plugs and wires. Couldnt get the car past 30 without flooring it Angry so i replaced it and shes drove like a champ ever since. If that doesnt help, get ur injectors checked out, if they are clogged then that could be whats causing it also.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2006, 08:56:16 PM by BlackDragon » Logged

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Re: 96 avenger dying
« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2006, 08:56:35 AM »

Jeff... I have experienced these same symptoms personally in my 99 'Bring.  I suspect your timing belt has skipped at least two teeth.  Have you done your belt yet? if so how long ago and what brand?

I decided one day I'd spend some time on cleaning my engine bay.  Before washing I used a low pressure air gun to rid the nooks and crannies of debris like sand and dirt and the nice mouse nest built under the air intake.  Long story short... chased cam sensor CEL for a month - $600 and lots... I mean LOTS of parts... I gave up and brought it to my local Chrysler store... spent a fortune I did not have!  not recommended... they spent 10 fucking hours  Angry Shocked trying to diagnose this... and the tech had 22 years working drivability with late model Chryslers.

CAUSE:  The sand I was blowing out wound up getting sent down into the timing cover and landed in the cogs on the crank gear... mine jumped 6  Huh, thats SIX  Shocked, teeth!  I got lucky as I believe our 2.5L is an interference engine (this means if the cams are allowed slack Mr. Valve meets Mr. Piston in violent fashion)  My tech said one or two more teeth skipped I'd be looking for my twin turbo 3.0L.

What happens: Note: Our timing is completely controlled by the ECU and is not adjustable by us owners!   Cry while the engine is first started and still cold and in "closed loop", or running on its preprogrammed settings until warm... approx 10 mins), it does not read signals from the engine sensors.  Thus its runs "ok" at first, with a slight bog under throttle and funny whooshing sound, back fires too...  and gets worse... almost like your cat converter has clogged completely.  As it warms, switches to "open loop", reading sensor info which is improper due to the crank and cams out of sync.

BOTTOM LINE! 

DO NOT DRIVE IT THIS WAY!  Get it checked by a experienced Chrysler/Mitsu mechanic, PREFERRABLY with 2.5L experience, ASK FOR THE BEST 2.5L your dealer has!!!  Tell them what you've had done and you suspect the timing belt and would like that checked... but nothing more... other info may take them into another direction in troubleshooting and bring huge labor charges..

If it is the belt, make sure to replace tensioner for sure and maybe idler too... only want to do this once!!!  I did not try on my own to do the belt so i cannot comment on degree of difficulty.  Parts should be relatively inexpensive... get the OEM parts, no aftermarket unless specified severe service, but the labor will cost nearly your left testi!!!  So hopefully you know a good grease monkey! 

Good luck and please keep us updated...!

MN_LXi_Pilot
'99 LXi - Northfield, MN
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Re: 96 avenger dying
« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2006, 08:12:39 PM »

I'd go with the timing belt.  I have a 95 and was driving it out of town when mine BROKE.  On these motors there is ZERO clearance so it drives the pistons right into the valves and bent the whole bunch.  Luckily my neighbor works at Clearwater Cylinderhead and hooked me up with some replacements and a nice head job.

Before it broke I had the EXACT symptoms you had.  I highly suggest that you check the timing and while you are there replace it and the tensioner.  Make sure you have the timing marks lined up PERFECTLY.  It makes a huge difference in performance.  I put mine together the first time one tooth off and we went in and fixed it and it has over 150K on it and runs strong as a bull.  The marks have to be perfect.

To fix this now is just a C-note and an afternoon if it breaks it is over $1200 to get the valves replaced and all the head work and everything.

Of course, I did have to replace the distributor too but that was unrelated.
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