Took me sometime but i found this forum! I have inherited a 1997 Chrysler Sebring from a relative (well more like bought it suppose but for cheap!).
Yesterday I did the first few important things that I thought should be done:
-Spark Plug and Spark Plug Cables replaced (with NGK Platinum gapped @ .044in + Bosch Premium wire set) -Spark Plug seals were leaky so those were changed as well -Valve Cover Gaskets -Thermostat (car was getting too hot so I checked out the old thermostat and it was indeed stuck, putting in boiling hot water the spring mechanism didn't work any more).
After putting everything back together, I went for a test drive to make sure everything was ok. During the test drive I noticed that the Oil pressure was rising and dropping based on how i drove it and car was idling @ 1700 RPM. This was fixed by tightening up the 2 EGR valve bolts that I had left hand screwed.
Now this morning I noticed that car started running HOT again (coolant gauge showed water to H mark before I stopped). I looked and the radiator cap wasn't tied down properly. I tied the rad cap back down and filled up the coolant via rad cap. And at this point I am stuck with two issues:
1) Car running hot (again like the way i got the car before changing the thermostat). Could it be possible that air pockets are causing this now and I didn't really screw up the thermostat?
Can anyone here point me on how to do a proper flush and fill? I only need to know the bleeder and drain plug locations for rad and engine.
2) Car is idling @ about 1300 RP M's now.
I have ordered my Haynes Repair Manual but it will be at least 1 week before I get it, that's why asking these questions here in hope of getting the car back on road.
Also, if anyone knows the location of O2 sensor: "Bank 1 Sensor 1" (because the P0134 DTC was stored), that will be great. I am guessing it is on the exhaust manifold from bank of cylinders close to the firewall?!
One more thing i forgot to mention was that i cleaned the throttle body and the intake with roughly about a 750 ML bottle of Throttle Body Cleaner. There was a lot of carbon build up.
Haynes repair manuals are the worst car manual. Pick up a Chilton.
The running hot could be you don't have enough coolant. When the thermostat is closed it doesn't allow coolant all the way through the motor. You fill it up when the car is off and the water pump isn't pumping anything so you will have spots with no coolant. I would turn the car on and let it get to operating temp. (half way up) then when the thermostat is open add more coolant.
I don't know where the 2.5 is supposed to idle so I can't assist you too much there, but being that it's high, I would check and make sure that your TB cable didn't get caught up on anything when you did your work. Also you just did a bit of work I would reset the computer if you didn't give it a chance to self tune.
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Mod List. Um WAY too many to fit on here. But the engine can handle about 800HP
As far as a 'bleeder valve' for the v6's cooling system... didn't know any cooling system had a bleeder valve. Just a drain cock [passenger side of radiator].
NORMAL idle, under nominal conditions [including current engine 'status'] is 750-900 RPM.
Reasons it could have overheated again:
Obviously, it's a pressurized system, so if the cap wasn't on properly, it won't build up pressure to keep the coolant flowing [most likely problem].
Water Pump [unlikely but still possible].
You need to flush your system out. Check your radiator fans to make sure that they are actually working first. My 99 ES had a busted fan, so the only cooling was at 35+mph. it took less than 2 minutes at a red light for me to start overheating. After I flushed it out with a super cleaner [see pic below], it took 15 minutes [chronographed and after being driven around for 30] for the engine to start to overheat WITHOUT a working radiator fan.
Too much/little oil. Check it sometime. When i worked at Advance, this one kid had put 5 qts into an engine that was only supposed to hold 2.5-3 qts [some corolla model]. I handed him a clean oil drain pan, a funnel, and a floor jack and told him that he wasn't leaving until he drained it and put the recommended amount back in it [he had just done an oil change, so the oil was still new]. After he did that, it stopped overheating. lol.
You have to drive on it for 3-6 hours [not in one sitting unless you have a road trip] but it's worth it to me.
alot of chevy's come with bleader valves, you would think its a good idea for all cars, even though almost every chevy i had to open the valve on broke the top off and i had to unscrew the big bold below it
I am used to bleeder valves because I have worked on Honda's and BMW's and they both had bleeder valve which made almost impossible to have air trapped in the cooling system.
Back to the rough idle: I forgot/missed to connect one of the connectors..not sure what it is...just behind the throttle body...probably some sensor. Once connected idle is all good.
Did'nt get time to do full coolant flush/fill so I tried to just run the car hot...and keep filling it up untill I get no more hissing from the rad cap. But the car still over heating although the time it takes to go to top i.e. HOT has gone down now.
Do you guys think, I could have damaged the new T-stat while doing all this?
hot metal meets cold water, yeah possibly. lol. Your radiator fans DO work right? It could be something as simple as a Coolant Temperature Sensor. Won't tell the fans to come on.
Radiator fans work as they should .... they kick off at some point the after coolant reaches half way or a bit more than that.
One question I had is the why is this damn car not use the expansion talk fluid at all? Its full and yesterday while filling rad up through the rad cap i noticed even when it needed coolant it did'nt slurp it down from the expansion tank.
Finally, one last question if anyone knows...where is the drain plug/bolt for removing coolant from the engine block? This weekend I will do a proper coolant flush and the fill up and wanted to empty coolant from both radiator and the engine block.
Thanks.
PS: Sorry for the basic questions but I am still awaiting my Chilton's manual (probably be here sometime next weekend).
As far as a 'bleeder valve' for the v6's cooling system... didn't know any cooling system had a bleeder valve. Just a drain cock [passenger side of radiator].
NORMAL idle, under nominal conditions [including current engine 'status'] is 750-900 RPM.
Reasons it could have overheated again:
Obviously, it's a pressurized system, so if the cap wasn't on properly, it won't build up pressure to keep the coolant flowing [most likely problem].
Water Pump [unlikely but still possible].
You need to flush your system out. Check your radiator fans to make sure that they are actually working first. My 99 ES had a busted fan, so the only cooling was at 35+mph. it took less than 2 minutes at a red light for me to start overheating. After I flushed it out with a super cleaner [see pic below], it took 15 minutes [chronographed and after being driven around for 30] for the engine to start to overheat WITHOUT a working radiator fan.
Too much/little oil. Check it sometime. When i worked at Advance, this one kid had put 5 qts into an engine that was only supposed to hold 2.5-3 qts [some corolla model]. I handed him a clean oil drain pan, a funnel, and a floor jack and told him that he wasn't leaving until he drained it and put the recommended amount back in it [he had just done an oil change, so the oil was still new]. After he did that, it stopped overheating. lol. You have to drive on it for 3-6 hours [not in one sitting unless you have a road trip] but it's worth it to me.
damn, that is really nice of you shiano. I never had that happen to me when i was at advance auto parts, autozone, or pep-boyz. hell, most of the time they dont even know what kind of car im driving.
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