I just got a 95 avenger I4 finally after i sold my sebring 2 years ago, one problem I have with the car is the engine shuts off while driving the car I would have to put the car in neutral and turn it back on and it will work fine, this problem is intermittened it happens about 2 times a day. could it be fuel pump/filter?
Thanks in advance for the help and glade to be back.
I would check the easiest stuff possible. Fuel first. Disconnect your fuel line at the rail (CAREFULLY) have a bottle or something ready because fuel will run out of both the line and the rail. If you have fuel run out, hold the line in the bottle until no more fuel is just dripping out. Then keeping the line in the bottle have someone crank the car. If the fuel sprays into the bottle you're pump is fine, and fuel filter isn't clogged. Then you can pull off the harnesses on each injector. Check the resistance (should be around 12-15 ohms). But since it's shutting off intermitently chances are it's not a bad injector.
Neutral Safety switches only affect the starter. If the switch is bad it won't let your starter get power. (At least that's the way it is on Ford's, I've never dealt with our automatics).
Do you have a CEL (check engine light) on? This would be VERY helpful if you do.
What else does it do rough idle? Loss of acceleration? Does it turn right back on after you turn the car off or do you have to wait a bit? Will it start in park?
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Mod List. Um WAY too many to fit on here. But the engine can handle about 800HP
The car turns back on fine once it shuts off, if i have it in park and give it some gas one out of 5 times rpm will go up and then all the way down to 0 then car shuts off, same thing while driving car would just loose acceleration and rpm will go down and car shuts off, while driving I put it in neutral and car turns back on fine. while in park car idles at about 1k RPM. No CEL the Check engine light never comes on. would it still give a CEL ?
I'm leaning toward the CrPS on this one, but still, the fuel filter WILL be the easiest and least expensive to replace, so do it first. Plus, it probably needs it anyways.
Fuel cap off, IGN off, Rag over the hose, and do NOT be directly under it when you disconnect it. There will still be a little bit of pressure when you take the hose off.
The Crank Position Sensor (CrPS) the Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) both can be tested but you need an oscilloscope. I would just take it to a mechanic and see if they can test it for you. You can pull the CPS out and clean it, see if it's all gunked up, that could also cause the problem you're having. You can check the CrPS too, but I've never heard of them being problematic because of gunk build up. Also check the connections, make sure that something didn't catch a wire and pulled it loose, causing intermittent continuity.
Also don't look past the EGR a few people have reported this as a problem that results in the same issue you're having. Vacuum Pump is all you need to test the valve. In fact the more I think about it the better I feel suggesting you check the EGR. If the EGR valve fails it will cause a weak/rough idle and engine stalls. You shut the car off the valve resets and now it runs again, until the valve fails. Sounds familiar? The longer you run with a bad valve the more often the problem will arise (because the leak gets worse with more pass through, just like a gasket).
Personally I just bypass the EGR and deal with the CEL because it's no good for your engine anyway.
Most auto places will check out certain things for free if you ask them about them specifically.
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Mod List. Um WAY too many to fit on here. But the engine can handle about 800HP
my 96 sebring used to do that and I would end up having to run off the road. Is your car overheating? make sure that you have enough oil. also could be your O2 sensors.
Car is not overheating at all. I will start by replacing the Fuel filter this weekend when i get the time and go from there. is there an how to to remove the EGR?
There is for the v6. you can actually buy a block off plate on eBay if you can't make your own.
Now, be warned, you WILL have to deal with the CEL being on ALWAYS if you do this mod. It's simply because the CEL 'thinks' your egr has gone bad when it's really simply because it's just not there. I can't remember if there is any way to fool it or not though.
There is a way to fool it, I did. Altough it does sometimes come on and throw a code 32, but very rarely. Its a resistor, if you want I can check what resisitance it has tommorrow..
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