Ok so i am an idiot. Got a CAI and hit the biggest puddle in a downpour, sweet. I hydrolocked. So far I've pulled plugs and cranked it shooting as much water as i can out the plug holes. Also i sucked the the intake manifold dry of water and tried to suck as much water as i could on top of the valves with the vac as well. But i can still see more water on top the cylinder heads. I went to my local mechanic they asked if it knocked as i crank on it, it doesn't so he thought that maybe i didn't bend the rod or valves. that only the water that is still in there is still preventing it from starting. i really dont fell like swapping for a used engine either.
Ive read that maybe i can use first my air compressor to hopefully shoot the water out of the piston heads, also maybe using a small rubber hose on the vaccum to be able to fit into the cylinder head might be able to get in there and suck up the rest of the water...
well this is what ive tried, and yes i swapped the oil, since water eventually will seep into the oil pan, and got new plugs, ngk of course.
so i am in need of help. any ideas or suggestions guys? anything will be appreciated. thanks
ok i used a the vacuum with a copper pipe duck taped to the end and cranked the engine so that the water would splash up and i got most of it out suing the vacuum. then to finish the small amount i couldnt get i was using a small rubber hose attached to a brake bleeding pump to suck out the lil bit left. then i found that most of the liquid was not water left inside but gas since i forgot to unplug the fuel pump before i had started to crank the system. so the liquid i had left was only gas so very good. i started it and it didnt go still. But i tried it again cuase i was just frustrated and it worked. well that saved a lot of money.
hopefully others if they have a CAI w/out the by-pass valve can use what i did to help if they run into this problem. The vacuum and tube with duct tape around the end of the copper tube to make a seal so it fit snug into the spark plug whole works very well after i tried just taking the plugs out and cranking it over. I must say i got lucky but i didn't hit the puddle at fast speeds actually i coasted through it without pressing the gas pedal at all hoping i wouldn't pick up any water. So two days of trying anything and everything i got a break of luck! thank god!
thank you guys for the help i tried the hair blow drier and blew the fuse , i tried getting that valve cover off to easier access the heads and maybe its just me but for some reason i couldn't get it off, idk. but one more question i know i needed new plugs but do you think maybe wires as well?
Glad it all worked out with little problem. Run high octane gas for a couple of tanks (I know it's damn expensive). And CHANGE YOUR OIL!!! Do not use oil that has been run with water in it. If you really want to do it right, change your oil drive 500 miles and change it again. Also your plugs should be fine as long as they're dry (Correct me if I'm wrong someone, but let's face it I"m perfect.)
Good Luck!
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titan-racing.com Medialocker.org
Mod List. Um WAY too many to fit on here. But the engine can handle about 800HP
well of course the oil i changed it right away at the beginning of the repair and it was milky camel color, sweet....not really. but then when i finally got it to turn over today i ran it for 1 minute than immediately changed again, same color since all that water is falling into the oil pan. so ill remember to change around 500 miles again then. my gf's grandpa said to change it in a couple hundred miles as well, i wasn't so sure. now i will for sure. so what does the higher octane gas do to help? just curious. also instead of buying it could i add octane booster, since i have some readily available?
simply put, it burns better. And octane booster won't really help you as well as the gas. you'll only be paying $4.50 more per TANK so it's not like you're really going to notice it that bad unless you are really bad with money.
like I said the higher the octane the harder it is to ignite with more compression you have a higher air temperature when compressed higher temperature = higher chance of dieseling that's an auto ignition mostly cause by junk inside the combustion chamber burning red hot and acting like a spark plug
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Harder to burn, but burns hotter, hotter helps clean everything out.
not really much hotter it is still good old fuel the octane alone will not change the properties of the car fuel unlike when you are running a much different fuel type like propane or methane
Alain
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do a unique engine swap or die trying bow to the torque meister , the 2.4L prophet
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, i tried getting that valve cover off to easier access the heads and maybe its just me but for some reason i couldn't get it off, idk. but one more question i know i needed new plugs but do you think maybe wires as well?
