With the development of this turbo system we hope to bring to the avenger/sebring platform a turbo kit made with high quality, reliable parts that won't need to be upgraded a few months down the road when you become more addicted to boost. The fuel and tuning system used is capable of hp levels much higher than what will ever be needed, therefore increasing to higher boost levels will be easily accomplished without needing to upgrade parts. You are limited only by the level of boost your engine can handle. We will not offer a "Stage 1" system. Our base system will be a "Stage 2" intercooled with an approx hp increase of around 150 bhp. We do not believe in building a "cheap" turbo kit. We will not put our name on something that is not safe, reliable, and of the highest quality possible. Items in our system such as the use of braided stainless fuel lines and high quality gauges and tuning controllers are not cheap. However neither is a new car or a new engine, if you have ever seen the results of a rubber fuel line that failed due to high fuel pressures, or an engine that was destroyed due to inadequate tuning, then you would justify to yourself the higher cost of the high quality components.
Keep in mind this will not be a kit, this will be installed and tuned by us, labor charges are included in the pricing. We did not cut any corners in compiling the parts for this project and will not cut any corners during the installation. We will not do this sub-par with low quality parts. Only high quality parts are being used and the price obviously reflects that quality.
Included in our basic installation • Turbo - Turbonetics T04E-50 Stage III .48 A/R with polished compressor housing • 2.25" Aluminized TIG welded turbo collector, mandrel bent with stainless steel flex section • 2.5" Aluminized TIG welded mandrel bent downpipe with stainless steel flex section • Turbonetics Deltagate Mark II 35mm Wastegate – dump to atmosphere • Braided Stainless Teflon lined turbo oil feed line • Braided Stainless 10AN oil drain line and fittings • High Temperature Exhaust gaskets • 2.25" Intercooler piping with Silicone couplings and T-bolt clamps • K&N Air Filter • Front Mount Intercooler, Bar and plate design, core size 24"x7.5"x3" • TurboXS type H-RFL Blow off Valve • NGK V-power spark plugs, 1 heat range cooler • Disturbing Motorsports custom fuel plumbing system and programmable tuning system, including all new braided stainless fuel supply lines, Walbro 255lph in tank pump, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, fuel rails, high flow fuel filter, Synapse Missing Link, DM Fuel Cut Defender, Under hood fuel pressure gauge • Autometer Ultralite series gauges • 30 psi boost and vacuum gauge • 1600 degree EGT gauge • Transmission temperature gauge • AEM Wideband UEGO Gauge • 2 gauge Pillar pod • 2 gauge instrument cluster gauge bezel • Flexalite 6 pass Trans cooler • Flexalite 12" low profile radiator fans • Battery Relocation to the trunk is required.
Basic System Price $6400 installed (plus 6% sales tax)
Optional Upgrades • Ceramic Ball Bearing Turbo +$350 • Stainless exhaust collector and downpipe +$350 • 24"x10"x3" intercooler +$10 • 24"x12"x4" intercooler +$70 • Synapse Synchronic Blow Off Valve +$65 • HKS SSQ Blow Off Valve +$110 • Synapse 40mm Wastegate -$50 • Tial Sport 38mm Wastegate -$65 • MSD Ignition Upgrade kit with boost timing control, includes our full kit with coil, mounting plate, distributor cap and rotor +$650 • Accel 8mm Spark Plug Wires +$82.95 • Flexalite 8 pass Transmission Cooler +$13 • Bosal 2.5" Catback exhaust system +$450 • High Flow Catalytic Converter +$90 • Battery Relocation to trunk, including box and wiring +$110 • Optional gauge styles and brands are available contact us to determine pricing adjustments
All pricing is subject to adjustment on a vehicle to vehicle basis, based on the mods and components that may already be installed on the car.
Also to bring up a good option for everyone - especially those of you who like to work on your own cars and do your own mods, and want to save some money.
You know you need gauges and pods - go ahead and buy them and install them yourself, granted the wideband and the eg gaguge can't be fully connected without having the exhaust manifold and piping done to install the sensors, but all the wiring inside the car can be done. Thats a couple hours worth of work for us that you can do yourself. And as long as you do it right and i don't have to go looking for your mistakes you won't be charged anything for this work.
You have to have a trans cooler installed and you have to have your battery relocated out of the engine bay, both very easy things to do with minimal tools and some mechanical ability, go ahead and do these parts yourself. (if installing a trans cooler you need to make sure to use extra long hoses on the lines so they can be routed to the side to clear everything that is being added, meaning you will need hose longer than what is included with the cooler.
You are going to need new radiator fans, and you can buy, install and wire these yourself too.
Maybe i can work out a parts package that would give you what you need to allow you to remove your oil pan and install the oil return line fitting - and then just cap off the line until its needed. This means we don't have to remove the pan and get covered in oil - I charge extra for getting covered in oil
IF you are serious about things these options can be used in conjunction with the payment options we have given you.
Now keep in mind i am going to be a lot more willing to work with you when it comes time to discuss the final price for us to build the rest of the system after you installed some of the parts, if you have been a loyal customer and bought at least most of the parts from us. And don't try to low ball us on everything.
Just and FYI i am also looking at the possibility of going with an internal wastegate setup instead of the external wastegate, pricing could be less with the internal but you loose the coolness factor of the dump tube.
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After much discussion, this is the plan we will be offering for payments:
You make equal payments over a 6 to 12 month span (this money would sit in a bank account and not be touched, and you would recieve reciepts for all of it) and when it is paid off, or more manageable, you bring your car here and we turbo it.
There will be a $500.00 non-refundable deposit, and and your "paid in full" amount on both would be slightly more than someone who paid cash in full for everything at once (because to take payments, im gonna have to charge the fees associated with it)
THIS PRICE IS FOR A BASIC SYSTEM ONLY - NO UPGRADES INCLUDED.
The payment plans include taxes and all associated fees for making payments. Keep in mind, I am not charging ANY interest on this, only the fees I have to pay - we do not make any extra money doing it this way - not even a dime.
For the sake of keeping my books correct, we can't stretch it more than 12 months.
On the payment plan, you also have the option of paying a chunk now (say... 4k?) and basing your remaining 6 or 12 months of payments on a nice downpayment, or if you pay a nice chunk in say - 3-4 months, we can re-figure your payments based on that too.
Keep in mind, that if you back out, all money (with the exception of the deposit) will be returned to you.
what I'f I wanted to have u guys do a full 3.0 swap and then turbo? I wouldnt do anything with the gauges or any of the wiring just have you guys do everything. what's that cost then?
what I'f I wanted to have u guys do a full 3.0 swap and then turbo? I wouldn't do anything with the gauges or any of the wiring just have you guys do everything. what's that cost then?
Still would be the same 3.0L swap charge. $750 for parts and labor + the price of the engine.
No extra charge for us to install the gauges.
Once the time comes, we might be able to work with you on the labor if you wanted to do the 3.0L swap at the same time.
good deal, If i didnt have to work myself outta debt i woulda been on this already, but ill be out in a few months. for that price, i think its def. worth it. much better than having to get a new car imo. and btw, this includes all the works including the aluminum radiator and everything u guys have, no holes barred. I'm serious about it, but everything takes time,
good deal, If i didnt have to work myself outta debt i woulda been on this already, but ill be out in a few months. for that price, i think its def. worth it. much better than having to get a new car imo. and btw, this includes all the works including the aluminum radiator and everything u guys have, no holes barred. I'm serious about it, but everything takes time,
Are you asking if this includes the aluminum radiator?
If so, this does not include the aluminum radiator.
no im just saying i will want everything done, i know ur quoted price does not include the alumiinum radiator, but I will be adding that to my "wish list"
What if I want a different turbo? Are you guys willing to flex and bend things to suit the customer or is it a "this is the kit, this is all we will do?" If your asking what turbo, here's the link http://www.aerocharger.com/
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"Its the end of the 4th quarter and your wanting to throw a hail mary! Sure I'd like to be pimps from Oakland but this isn't halloween, Grow up count chocula" -The Wedding Crashers
What if I want a different turbo? Are you guys willing to flex and bend things to suit the customer or is it a "this is the kit, this is all we will do?" If your asking what turbo, here's the link http://www.aerocharger.com/
So you want to buy a turbo that is made for a motorcycle, 4 wheeler, snowmobile?
We are flexible on somethings, but we are not going to scrimp on the turbo charger. We are pry going to be changing from the one that is listed and going with a Garrett turbo charger. But it will be a non ball bearing turbo with the option of getting a ball bearing turbo for extra.
sorry, mo, but i do not buy the "no-lag" bit, of course it can be limited, but it runs off the exhaust and due to the factor that if there is not exhaust, there is no spool, it might not really help. btw, where else did you get info on this " 'charger" just curious.
Most Harley's an snowmobiles are in the 1,000+cc range, whats our engines, 1997cc's? maybe thats the 2.0 litre, anyways, those are also the 53000 series turbo, there out now with the 66000 series, a more larger turbo that will support up to 340hp. So, why not twin turbo to easily reach my 400hp goal? I know there isnt the greatest amount of room behind our engines, but heres an area where these turbo's really shine. They dont require any oil or coolant lines. Why? because the engineers shortened up the turbine shaft and moved the bearing in front of the compressor. Shortening the shaft gives it TREMENDOUS amounts of strength. Shaft length usually determines the CRS, Critical Rotational Speed. Once that point is reached the shaft bends, throwing it out of balance which makes it bend more, throwing it more out of balance, etc until it gets so bad the wheels touch the housings and its all over, all in a few milliseconds. By also moving the bearings in front of the compressor the bearings aren't exposed to the heat from the exhaust, saving them from the dreaded "heat soakback" that so commonly happens and why turbo's are now watercooled. Plus this turbo has its own oil resovoir that sprays a mist of oil on the bearings, not floods them like garrett and all the other turbo's. Even on modern turbo's it takes roughly 2hp just to spin ball bearings through oil, which creates more turbo lag cause of the friction. And because it has its own oil supply, it can be mounted anywhere without any oil an coolant lines, even be mounted vertically.
Now about the "zero-lag" part. I agree there is always going to be lag in a tubo because of how a turbo works. Thats where the A/R of the housing comes in. Think of the A/R of the housing as a nozzle on a garden hose, the water being the exhaust from your motor, spraying onto a wheel of some sort. At idle, or low flow, there isnt much work being done because there isnt much energy available. As the flow increases there is more energy and the water will start to turn the wheel. Now if you put a smaller A/R housing or "nozzle" on, you create a faster moving stream containing more energy. This will get the wheel spinning sooner than before but it will suffer in the higher range because it will be over-speeding the wheel, not good. If you put a bigger nozzle on it will take longer for the wheel to start to spin, but theres more potential in the higher end to make lots more boost. To get around this frustration engineers design Variable Vane (VV) or Variable Area Turbine Nozzles (VATN). Instead of an open exhaust housing commonly found on turbo's, the aerocharger has vanes around the turbine. At idle/low flow, the vanes close forming a very small gap for the exhaust to go through. This small gap causes the exhaust to speed up before it hits the turbine wheel, therefore making the turbine spin faster, once you mash on the gas the vanes start to open to accomodate the added exhaust. Once the turbo reaches the amount of boost you want, the vanes open wide to limit boost.
The only downside to these turbo is they generally weigh and cost more because theres more parts. But it saves headaches on tapping into your engines oil and coolant systems and having to drill a hole in your oil pan. Plus finding space for a wastegate and running the appropriate piping required for that. VATN are mostly used in semi's, the Ford Powerstroke 6.0L Diesels, and some cars. So they have been around for awhile. But none of them moved the bearings to the front and added there own oil supply. I first read about VATN turbo in a book i picked up at Books A Million, I cant remember the name right off hand i'll have to find the book, but it did specifically talk about the aerocharger for a short bit, but at the time of publishing the turbo's had stopped being manufactured due to the high costs at the time. But with today's greater technology and faster, cheaper manufacturing, they're being made again. And hopefully this time they'll catch on.
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"Its the end of the 4th quarter and your wanting to throw a hail mary! Sure I'd like to be pimps from Oakland but this isn't halloween, Grow up count chocula" -The Wedding Crashers
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