Hi. well, I will try to make this as short as possible. Basically, I am trying to do an tramission flush and I think I know how to do it. I noticed that my tranmission oil was gone, and this was because I replaced my radiator, and I remember that when I was taking those 2 hoses out from the top of the radiator, the oil just ran out of those 2 hoses. What I did was I put in regular ATF/ATF Mercon V oil and Ive been driving with this oil for 4 days. I couldnt find any ATF+4 oil which I know is recommended for chyrsler and dodge vehicles, because there were no stores in my area that had this, and not to mention there is no one damn autozone or pep boys around me. Today, I just bought the ATF+4 made by "Coastal" and I want to flush the old crap out so I can put this good stuff ATF+4 in there and hopefully have everything run correctly and not cause any problems if any were caused by now{I am hoping not}. Correct me if Im wrong, but isnt this is the way of making a tranmission flush by taking out those 2 hoses that are coming out from the engine bay area near the engine coolant tube and unplugging them out of those 2 metal tubes that are coming out from the top of the radiator and letting starting the car like that? I believe this is the right way becuase I learned this first hand{and I got my hair and shirt all wet from this oil} when I took those 2 hoses out without knowing that the transmission oil will come right now when I had my cousin turn on the car. Is this an acceptable way of doing a tranmission oil flush by yourself?
When we do a trans service we flush it with 14qts of whatever fluid it needs. using a transtech3 machine bymotorvac. Basically we hook up hi and lo side lines to the machine, open the gauges and run a cleaner through all the trans while we take it through all the gears on the lift. We then use the machine to remove all but maybe a quart or two, drop the pan and change filter if it has one, then use the machine to fill it with clean stuff.
You CAN do it thwe way you suggest, but its going to make a mess. If you remove the pan, make sure not to re-use the gasket unless specified to do so on the pan (aka fords). After you think you have flushed it, check the fluid level, take it for a short test drive and then top it off.
jim, i know u made that suggestion in good hopes, but from reviews....i wouldnt suggest a power flush. remove your transmission pan,( this is how it is done in the manual) replace the filter, let everything leak into an oil pan of course, replace with the tranny pan gasket that you receive with the purchase of the filter, fill ur oil, start ur car, keep ur parking brake up, ur foot on the brake pedal, shift from park, through to L staying a second or two in each gear and end back at park.
jim, i know u made that suggestion in good hopes, but from reviews....i wouldnt suggest a power flush. remove your transmission pan,( this is how it is done in the manual) replace the filter, let everything leak into an oil pan of course, replace with the tranny pan gasket that you receive with the purchase of the filter, fill ur oil, start ur car, keep ur parking brake up, ur foot on the brake pedal, shift from park, through to L staying a second or two in each gear and end back at park.
Scott, Honestly this method is frowned upon and considered to not be a legit trans flush. The problem is you are really only draining a few quarts of transmission fluid, and most of the contaminated/burn/broken-down fluid, along with all of the contaminants, still remain in the trans mission. While yes, the filter change is important, flushing out the old fluid is even more important, because it is "loaded" up with small contaminants that the filter simply can not capture. Transmission fluid is sort of like motor oil in these sense, however it does not get as dirty nearly as fast.
My shop maintains the police cars for two towns (each over 30,000 residents) and we perform this service every 30,000 miles, never had any sort of problems.
Also, as far as the gaskets go, most fords come with a re-usable rubber gasket that is far superior to the cork gasket that comes with replacement filter kits. In this case, no sealant is necessary, however it is recommended that you clean the inside of the pan with brake cleaner, and remove the magnet to wipe off all the metal flakes on it. Cork gaskets tend to seep fluid eventually.
Did not use any power. It has a blatter system in it. You connect the transmission cooler line into the machine and the other hose on the machine where the cooler line used to go. And the old fluid pushes the new fluid in. So you do not have to worry about any seals blowing out or anything that the power flushing machines cause problems with.
As long as the CORRECT fluid is used, you should have no problems. Just ask what kind of machine they use and how it works. Our machine was a BG.
Drain pan by taking bolts out. Remove old filter, O-ring, & old gasket, AND clean pan & transmisson thoroughly. Install new O-ring and filter. Run a bead of the RTV around the gasket, place gasket on pan. Install pan onto the transmission tightening bolts in proper order. Then re-fill w/ 4 quarts ATV+4. Start car; check for leaks.
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