Remove your brake reservoir cap before compressing the caliper pistons. If your bleeder screws look a little rusty, don't touch them. Likely they will break off and you definately don't want to go through all of that trouble.

Light flare, drop in gas tank.
 


I will see if I can find the info tomorrow on the proper ABS bleeding procedure.  It is not recommended that you undo the cap and push everything back through the system with ABS, it can cause damage.  However if you put a hose into a bottle or something on the bleeder screw and slightly loosen it and push on the caliper piston, as long as you don't let the piston come back out (which it shouldn't on its own) you will not get air in the lines.  I have never had problems and had to bleed my whole system just undoing the screw a little and pushing the piston back in.

A bit of fluid came out.  Start pushing on the piston and keep pressure on it before you loosen the screw.  Then Tighten the screw back up before you release pressure off the piston.

you shouldn't have to bleed the whole system if ur just doing the front and not the rear brakes the resivor has 2 seprate resevoris for the front and rear just make sure it is full befor you start. also the rears have seperate lines. you will need a helper. and you start on the side ferthest from the res. which would be the pass
Tighten the  bleeder
helper pumps brakes untill he feels the pedal stiffen up
after it is stiff helper presses and holds the pedal to the floor
loosen bleeder it will spit and sputter ie. getting air out of line
tighten bleeder.
helper lets go of pedal
repeat that process untill its stops spitting and a solid stream comes out line it is easier to tell if you have a clear hose u can put over the tip of the bleeder then you can see the air in the lineit is also cleaner way of doing it
after you have all the air out of the pass side fill up res.and do the same thing on the drivers side
when you're done fill up you're res check for pedal stiffness
and dont forget to seat the brakes , also why you're doing the brake job be sure to clean the caliper slides and re lube them also the back side of the pads. and clean the rotors good with brake parts cleaner
pugsley

you're all three being very helpful.

I have changed the pads out on my 93 Dakota, and it was a warrantied exchange b/c after only 1/8 pad gone, a rock [maybe] had gotten between the caliper and the rotor and chipped a small part off the pad. Either way, it got warrantied and the brakes that had been on for a year got refreshed. Now, it was just me doing the labor on replacing them. I didn't have to loosen any bleeders to get the piston to go back in and it was a simple drop in and re-install the bolts. I've noticed that since I have replaced it, if the truck has been sitting for a few hours, the pedal will super grab on the first time i press it when i'm going forward. after that, it's just a normal grab. It's annoying to me so i kind of want to avoid it if i can on the venge. Like i said, super grab, then normal braking. The pedal pressure and resistance to my foot stays the same.

When the Dakota's wheel cylinder's got replaced, I was the one on the pedal. So, i didn't really get to watch my step dad do the work.

lol. i figured that's what you meant. we all have typos every once in awhile.

unless the car is a right hand drive car, the MC is always on the left.

you ALWAYS start at the right rear, then left rear, then front right, then front left.

once you do them all, i usually go back and do each one 2 times to make sure it's good.

you do NOT have to do all 4 wheels unless you have opened each line up. 

if you only fix say the right front, you only have to do the right front.