I just can't imagine what would cause the motor to have enough fuel that it ignites and still has fuel dripping. It's trippy. Let me know what it turns out to be, because I am out of ideas.
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titan-racing.com Medialocker.org
Mod List. Um WAY too many to fit on here. But the engine can handle about 800HP
SUBJECT: Intermittent Check Engine Light, No Start, Hard Start, or Inoperative Condenser Fan
MODELS: 1995 (FJ) Avenger/Sebring/Talon
NOTE : THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES WITH A 2.0 LITER (420A) ENGINE BUILT PRIOR TO MAY 24, 1995 (MDH 05-24-XX).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Corrosion of the front end wiring harness connector or two wire splice joints may cause varying conditions such as check engine light on, no start, hard start, and or radiator/condenser fan inoperative. The symptoms may be intermittent and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) may or may not be present.
DIAGNOSIS:
Using the Mopar Diagnostic System (MDS) or the Scan Tool (DRB III) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures Manual, verify all engine systems are functioning as designed. If Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are present, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding with this bulletin.
For vehicles with no (DTC's) present, perform the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
AR 4778570 Heat Shrink Tubing AR NPN Rosin Core Solder AR NPN Electrical Tape AR 06149 3M Electrical Moisture Sealant Patch (Box) or P/N 06147 Tape (Roll)
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves hard wiring the connector location and repairing two splice joints.
1. Record all radio presets, disconnect and isolate the negative battery terminal.
2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and remove the left front wheel and splash shield.
3. Locate the A-32 connector for Talon models or A-37 connector for Avenger/Sebring models (Figure 1). The connector is a 12 way with a black insulator.
4. Disconnect the connector and carefully inspect the male and female terminals for any corrosion.
5. If corrosion is found, cut the connector from the harness and splice the wires together as listed in step number 6. If no corrosion is found, proceed to the splice repair in step number 7.
6. Remove one inch of insulation from each wire end and place a piece of heat shrink tubing, P/N 4778570, over each wire. Twist the same color wires together and solder each splice with rosin core solder. Center the heat shrink tubing over the repaired area, and heat until the tubing is tightly sealed and sealant flows from each end.
7. Remove the two bolts that hold the left corner of the upper fascia to the body. Move the fascia outward to provide better access to the splices.
8. If the vehicle is ABS equipped, remove the shield from bottom of the control unit.
9. Locate the two splice joints (Figures 1 & 2). It will be necessary to remove the wiring from the protective convolute and any electrical tape to gain access to the splices.
10. Inspect both splice joints for any corrosion. If corrosion is found, remove the corroded portion and re-splice the same colored wires together. Use the procedures outlined in step number 6 to properly repair the splices.
11. If no corrosion is found at the splices, re-solder them using rosin core solder and seal each section with 3M Electrical Moisture Sealant Patch, P/N 06149, or Tape, P/N 06147.
12. After the repair, place the wires back into the convolute. Wrap electrical tape around the convolute to prevent the wires from protruding.
13. Install the ABS control unit shield (if equipped), fascia, splash shield and wheel. Lower the vehicle.
14. Connect the negative battery cable and set the radio presets recorded in step number 1. Set the clock to the appropriate time.
15. Verify proper operation of the vehicle before returning it to the customer.
POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE: Labor Operation No: Inspect Wiring Harness Connector and Splices for Corrosion 08-94-CA-90 1.1 Hrs.
Remove Connector and Hard Wire 08-94-CA-91 0.3 Hrs.
checked injector pulse gust to see if they wer staying open (no) best kind ....now i have pulled plugs did a oil change and disconnected injectors still spilling gas? with injectors un pluged so i am going to see if i can get all the fuel out by cranking ........o yea after a few cranks i hear a hissing comming out of the exuast ports ooooo my
hahahahhah guess what 00000000000000000 compression across the board thats ok though only going cost me 80 bucks my buddy owns a rebuild shop so off it goes fill u in how it all goes
o my runs fine now and wouldnt u guess it was timming lol off 180 degres ,yea all valves were open at same time ,so gas came in and then went right out the front . live and learn i guess ... yet thanks for all your help all
You have to remember that there are two ways to set it. With the crank at TDC the camgear marks are lined up. And if you rotate the crank one more full rotation, the camgears will be pointing the opposite way. SOOOOO you need to turn the crank one full turn. And then reset your camshafts. This will fix the problem 99% guaranteed.
Huh, 180 degrees you say? Kinda like rotating the crank a full turn, hmmmmmm that sounds familiar
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titan-racing.com Medialocker.org
Mod List. Um WAY too many to fit on here. But the engine can handle about 800HP
o man i am taking it in thats not a prob its just i am the kind of person thats loves a chalange. and the spark is hitting the gas cause flames come out the exuast lol crazy hay ... its almost like she is realy flooded
Ding ding ding, we have a winner! If you have spark and there's still fuel coming out the exhaust, it's definitely flooded, which means the injectors are sticking wide open for some reason. Bad computer maybe, I've seen a Ford truck do exactly the same thing, computer turned out to be bad.
BTW if you like your oil pan at all, you'll change the oil before you run the engine again It's definitely gonna be full of gas, and aside from it getting thinned out and not lubing properly, I've quite a few stories of people forgetting to change the oil and blowing the oil pan right off the engine.
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If you have spark and there's still fuel coming out the exhaust, it's definitely flooded, which means the injectors are sticking wide open for some reason. Bad computer maybe, I've seen a Ford truck do exactly the same thing, computer turned out to be bad.
It's definitely gonna be full of gas, and aside from it getting thinned out and not lubing properly, I've quite a few stories of people forgetting to change the oil and blowing the oil pan right off the engine.
