I've run synthetic blend since new ...I've tried full synthetic and the car sits at idle with "0" oil pressure too unnerving for me ... Belts I'll always use goodyear gatorbacks ... Plugs Denso Iridiums ....
I've run synthetic blend since new ...I've tried full synthetic and the car sits at idle with "0" oil pressure too unnerving for me ... Belts I'll always use goodyear gatorbacks ... Plugs Denso Iridiums ....
I can attest to the Denso Iridiums... I have them too, they are a little pricey but they are one of the best plugs you can get for your sebring
you'll prob wanna start out with synthetic blend… i've heard if you switch to full synthetic at high mileages it will tend to bring any leaks to the surface (so to speak). i personally don't use synthetic, but do use castrol gtx. i alternate between the regular castrol and the 'high mileage' castrol now that i'm at 145,000+ miles. i use the high mileage oil every 5th or so change. i'd recommend either doing what i do or using a synthetic blend and keeping check on any leakage that may occur.
Logged
i'm a peripheral visionary. i can see into the future, but way off to the side.
Yes, as already mentioned, I started using full synthetic on one of my previous vehicles that had 120K on it. It developed an oil leak shortly after, can't confirm it was due to the synthetic oil but in my mind, it was the synthetic
Mobil Clean 5000 [4cyl] Purolator Pure One oil filter [part # PL14670]
On my 99 2.5 Avenger I had, I always ran that. Then after 8 months I switched to a full synthetic. Mobil 1 5w-30. The car felt ALOT better. I actually ended up barking a tire pulling out of the driveway.
Mobil is better than Castrol. Not an opinion. A fact.
Its a waste of money to switch to synthetic this far in the game. Synthetic lubricates "better" than conventional motor oils. What the hell good does that do you when the motor has already been "worn" by conventional oil over 117k miles? Irrational thinking.
I'm a mechanic, so I have seen my share of engines. FREQUENCY of your oil change is what truly matters. The 5,000 and 7,500 mile mobile synthetic oil is a lot of marketing. While it is true that conventional oil breaks down over time, and this stuff supposedly will not, what the commercials conveniently fail to address is that regardless of what type of oil, both will become loaded with particles of carbon and metal. A filter can not catch everything, if it did it would hardly flow and oil through it.
High Mileage oil is a good idea for high mileage cars, or cars that burn/leak oil. My parents have a 98 Durango with 106K on it. It "consumed" oil form day 1. Doesn't smoke nor does it leak, it just slowly burns it over time. Maybe about 1quart every 2000 miles? I recently switched to high mileage oil and it barely went through a half quart between oil changes. It helps to rejuvenate seals to stop leaks.
My car is about to click 115k this week. 2 Oil changes ago I went for QS high mileage oil. This oil change I went for regular 10-30 but I used 1/2 quart of Lucas additive in it. I HIGHLY recommend you guys at least try this oil. You typically want about 20% of the engines capacity, so I only added 1/2 a quart (4qt motor). Definitely quieted it down on cold starts and it seems to run smoother. We are big advocates of this stuff at work for higher mileage engines. Check it out.
oil doesnt usually "burn" as ppl would normally, say, it may slow leak in an areay where there is extreme heat causing it to evaporate w/o notice, so 1 quart every 2000 miles would sound about right in that area. i never really thought of qs as good oil, but if it works for you it does, who knows, i might try it.
This is a fairly subjective thread, here are my two cents worth.
I bought this 95 2.5 car at 128 k. It was clean and rust free. Engine is quiet. I put a gatorback timing belt and some new idlers, and a new water pump on it.
It runs Mobil one 10w30 with no smoke, no leaks and the only hint of wet oil anywhere is the oil cap where it presses down on the cylinder head cover on the front. Mopar "090" filter (to increase oil capacity a bit). It was about 6 bucks from WalMart. I will screw a new filter on and add a quart of M1 at around 7000 miles. Gauge reads just below operating range at idle and moves up as soon as you hit the gas. Mopar says that 5 psi for every 1000 rpm is plenty of oil pressure, so idling below 10 with the lifters quiet is fine.
I put Nippondenso oem platinum plugs (2.69) and spent some money to get the best plug wires I could find. Summit Racing Accel Thunderstorm made for the 2.5l (69 plus freight). Be sure to change the spark plug tube seals and Valve cover gaskets while your changing spark plugs.
Ya'll might have to rethink what you consider to be high mileage...there is a reason that the big three build their cars with 6 digit odometers these days.
Author
Logged
--> 
