before performing any of this..make sure the stock exhaust pipe connecting the manifolds right before the catalytic converter is removed. also remove intake manifold.
1- have a socket wrench set and also a regular wrench set 10mm -18mm. also make sure u have the 5 inch and 10 inch extenders..(these measurements were guessed, they may be slightly shorter or longer) 2-jack and wooden block 3- remove the front manifold (this is the easy part) make sure u get a 14mm wrench for this. a socket wrench of the same size would be good also. use both. 4- you will have to dismount the engine to permit enough space to remove the rear manifold ( jack..and a wooden block for support..engine lift would make it easier tho) and its not as difficult as it sounds...really. 5-place the jack underneath a fairly strong spot underneath the engine the upper portion of the oil pan on my car was sufficient..if its rusting..try somewhere else that permits space as jackstands dont go too high (make sure the car is on jackstands prior) 6- using the socket wrench remove the bolt to the left of the engine (left while standing in front of car), remove the one in the front, remove the one to the right..then remove the one in the back. be extremely careful as the engine will lower itself onto the jack and wooden block...while removing the bolts, jack the engine up a bit to the point just before the entire car starts to go up. this will prevent the engine from going too low. 7-after the engine mounts are removed...raise the engine as high as it'll go before the car itself goes up 8-using the same tools that was used for the dismount of the front manifold...remove the rear manifold. this one is a bit challenging...remove what you can from above and then go underneath. to remove the rest. the alternator gets in the way for the bolt in the corner, so you will need the regular wrench for that. be patient it will take time. 9- after removing the rear manifold..intstall the rear header, and remount engine BEFORE trying to install the downpipe...i was tired and did this..and almost set the car on fire thinking i just spent 15 hrs and $500 dollars on a project that wasnt even gonna work. so i slept and came back n figured out the engine was still a bit high...anyway back to the important stuff 10-you will have to lower the engine a bit to get it remounted and you will have to move the jack to either side to get the engine to line up evenly. they wont all line up at the same point so as soon as u have one spot ready for the bolt i suggest going ahead and putting it in. this should take care the rest is fairly simple and shouldnt give u any issues.
BTW, i just wrote this all from memory/on impulse to respond to ur post as quickly as possible. if i left anything out, Ill be happy to add that info. but this should cover you pretty well.
oh so an entire exhaust....well..the headers..took me about 12 hrs of straight work..of course it was divided up a bit. after doing it once..u wont wanna do it again unless ur getting paid..so make sure they're exactly how u want it before u put em on...they may heat things up so it would be a good idea to invest in some header wraps. they're on ebay. 100ft should be more than enough. 50ft should be sufficient.....have fun..im custom making my own exhaust..i just gotta buy a few more pipes an then im done. its a "different" type of dual exhaust with flowmasters, the same headers u have. SS round cats...ill take a pic of the system when im done..there are some parts that are hard to come by...and just out of pure frustration i might just go with something slightly cheaper..i just dont wanna do this again..but i want it done by the end of summer (the entire car that is). we'll see how it turns out. like i said..when im done..ill post some pics...it should be done in a couple weeks..if not..then there's something def. wrong..im just waitin on my next paycheck to purchase the parts..then ill get right to work..install...and be on my way.
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... Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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