I was driving home today, stopped by the auto parts store, and when I restarted it, I drove a few seconds down the road and got no forward motion (sounded like it had shifted to neutral).
I switched it off in Neutral, and back on, and was able to go a few seconds, then the same neutral feeling again.
A few miles of this, and my wife finally delivered my scanner, with the codes 26 and 51-54.
Manual says internal failure, but I'd like to guarantee it's not some input/output speed sensor or wiring issue.
If it's internal, what might it be? I've just gotten done rebuilding this sucker, and it lasted a week.
Codes 51 is gear ratio error in 1st and 54 is gear ratio error in 4th.There are a few things you can do with your scanner. 1st can you do a clutch test, 2nd ck input and output for RPM readings. Input is the easyest, with the transmission in park do you have a RPM reading, if yes then the sensor is good. Now ck the output, You will need to move the car foreword or in reverse, Do you have RPM,if yes the sensor is good. Can you ck battery switch voltage should be 12.0v. Now if you can't do a clutch test here an easy way.Shift the cable in Low and drive,if its okay try 2d if its still okay then go to O/D if the trans goes into limp-in then you have a problem,maybe a broken hub with shaft. That means the trans will need to come out. Also one last thing can you ck CVI ( clutch volume index )
Not sure what a clutch test is. Did CVI's and OD was out of range. I probably have a snap ring broken, right?
I did do the input and output sensors... good there. I checked the solenoid connector and found fluids in there. I cleaned it out, tested, same thing. Damn... how many times do I have to pull this tranny?
Also, anybody know how to go about putting together a pressure checking tool for the pressure taps? I know my reverse is good, and that has the highest pressure, but I wanted to check the other parts... see if there's any blockage. But then again, I can't select those other ranges... I don't think...
I have a leakdown, probably the torque converter draining out, but need to figure out where it's coming from. And whether or not I can fix it... My understanding is that there are bushings on the input shaft that stops it from leaking out? But aren't they made of brass or copper? How do I replace those?
To remove transmission you don't need do realign the front end. Just remove the Lower ball joint bolts and pull down. And need to remove just once. If your CVI is higher than 150 then you have a broken snap ring.replace the front pump and torque converter and input shaft. You will need a pressure gauge that reads 300psi. Because reverse goes to 220 psi and line pressure should be 120.
Darn it, I had just replaced the input shaft and torque converter recently. The pump I never did, as it seemed to always work well in reverse, so I figured there'd be enough pressure for the other circuits.
I'm having a devil of a time understanding how fluid flows through this beast and fills the various sections or engages certain gears. I have the diagrams, but am just not getting it. It's a weird cross section, which I'm just not getting for some reason.
I'm not following how you did it just by removing the lower ball joints. Are you relying on the two moveable sections of the axles to allow for flex to move the tranny down? Is this done by also pulling the engine down too? Because I'm thinking that the torque converter has that nub that sits partially into the flywheel. And how would you put it back using this method? Seems very difficult or impossible. Are the control arms taken out too?
No you don't remove the Lower control arms or the tie rods going to the hub assy. The bolts on the Lower arm going thru holding the ball joint in place, come out. Should be 15mm bolt head and 18mm nut or 18mm for both. You will have lots of room to get the axles out.
Okay, I tore out the tranny today, and found the following:
1. The snap ring holding in the 2/4 hub assembly was sheared off on one side, and the top of the 2/4 assembly on one side was gouged because it was being pushed up by the belleview spring. I don't know if it's a requisite that it be smooth or not. I don't think there's anything that rides on it, as I believe it's supposed to fit around the top of the input hub assembly, and separated by the #4 thrust washer.
2. The top of the input hub assembly was gouged all around the top, due to scraping the top of the 2/4 hub assembly. I went ahead and filed it slightly to take the edge off and allow me to put on the other parts of the input hub assembly.
3. I discovered that I was missing the #1 bearing, right behind the pump. I remember finding one left over (#1 & #7 are the same) a loong time ago, you know, coincidentally about the time I was starting to have leak-down problems. This will probably take care of that problem. And it will likely mean that this is the reason for so much end play and requiring me to have a thick #4 thrust washer.
I've got a LOT more confidence on this, the 5th or 6th rebuild... Gah...
Anyway, I sure appreciate the help you guys. And I wish I'd known about pulling the lower ball joint. That's one to keep in memory... Thanks for that tip Leonard!
It's past 3, and I have work at 8, so I need to turn in. I'll put it together (hopefully tomorrow, pending the finding of all the parts I need. I couldn't find in my Transgo (or is it transtar?) catalog a part # for the 2/4 hub. I did find a reference to a 2/4 hub and sun gear assembly, but am unsure if that covers just the sun gear assembly, or if it includes the hub.
And I'll probably need to find a new pump seal, as well as 2/4 seals. And what gets me worse is that I cannot reuse those little screws for the pump... Almost $11 for those 5 screws alone! And I know the problems with reusing those.... One lesson learned the hard way.
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