I am trying to get the front rotors off of my car and the drivers side one won't come off. I tried using the threaded holes to press it off slowly but the rotor just cracked and broke around the holes. I beat on the backside all day with a rubber mallet and still no luck. The car has almost 120,000 miles and I don't think the previous owner ever changed the rotors. Yes they are very rusty, and yes I have soaked it in both WD-40 and rust-buster. HELP!
p.s. I also have a lug bolt I need to remove and I am having the same exact problem!
well, the easiest thing to do(that is if you have the means to) is to heat it up with a tourch. But if not all you can to is keep spraying it down with WD40 or some pblaster, and hitting it with a hammer. I can tell you i have broken rotors in half trying to get them off
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7psi on a stock bottom end with a atx, check mate.
Um, you did remove the Caliper right? Not picking on you but I have NO idea how much you know about this stuff. Other than that if the rotor is just really rusted on there, BEAT THE HELL out of it. That's pretty much it. Don't be afraid of hurting anything, your replacing it anyway.
Pry Bars are a good friend too. Try that.
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Mod List. Um WAY too many to fit on here. But the engine can handle about 800HP
Um, you did remove the Caliper right? Not picking on you but I have NO idea how much you know about this stuff. Other than that if the rotor is just really rusted on there, BEAT THE HELL out of it. That's pretty much it. Don't be afraid of hurting anything, your replacing it anyway.
Pry Bars are a good friend too. Try that.
or also an impact hammer works good. Or hell i have even cut rotors off with a cuttoff wheel on a grinder
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7psi on a stock bottom end with a atx, check mate.
The Easiest way is to get a big three armed puller(like free from Autozone) Crank that bad boy onto the perimeter and tighten her up ... IF there are drilled and tapped holes on the face of the caliper get bolts that fit it (I believe they are Metric) and start alternately tightening them down back and forth then tighten the puller ... If you have no holes then hit with LARGE hammerback and forth, tighten the puller ... As mentioned above heat can help ... Eventually it should POP loose so be carefully they can somtimes fly when they let go ...
When you install the new ones be sure to wirebrush all the hub face and apply a good coat of neverseize to prevent this the next time
i had the same problem and i had to use a good dose of PBlaster(awesome stuff) and i found taht it helped if you beat the $hit outta the rotor between the wheel studs. dont make the same mistake i did and hit the studs tho, re-threading them is a real pita.
Um, you did remove the Caliper right? Not picking on you but I have NO idea how much you know about this stuff. Other than that if the rotor is just really rusted on there, BEAT THE HELL out of it. That's pretty much it. Don't be afraid of hurting anything, your replacing it anyway.
Pry Bars are a good friend too. Try that.
My brother and I had to do that to a 1G AWD Eclipse. It took us about an hour, and we actually broke 2 of them in half doing it. I'm replacing my rotors soon, I got dimpled/slotted set and SS brake lines. The oldones shouldn't be rusted on yet; they've only been on for about 2 years. I was also wondering if 3k GT calipers would fit on stock size Avenger rotors, and if that would help braking.
Um, you did remove the Caliper right? Not picking on you but I have NO idea how much you know about this stuff. Other than that if the rotor is just really rusted on there, BEAT THE HELL out of it. That's pretty much it. Don't be afraid of hurting anything, your replacing it anyway.
Pry Bars are a good friend too. Try that.
My brother and I had to do that to a 1G AWD Eclipse. It took us about an hour, and we actually broke 2 of them in half doing it. I'm replacing my rotors soon, I got dimpled/slotted set and SS brake lines. The oldones shouldn't be rusted on yet; they've only been on for about 2 years. I was also wondering if 3k GT calipers would fit on stock size Avenger rotors, and if that would help braking.
stock size rotor no, you have to use the gsx/3kgt/stealth rotors cause the are bigger
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7psi on a stock bottom end with a atx, check mate.
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