I wanna do some prep work be4 it goes to paint, maybe reduce the cost for labour a little bit and plus i wanna work on my car. I have some high school auto body experience lol. i can do stuff like bondo and sanding and small stuff like that.
my question is what do the shops do b4 painting? do they sand off the clear or paint b4 painting? or do they just spray over the old clear and paint.
the car is in ok shape i guess but there is small patches of rust under paint
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1995 Dodge Avenger 4 cyl - Auto Mods: Custom Door panels, Intake, 20k mi Engine, Eclipse Center Console, Sony head unit and subs
What shape is your current paint in? Any rust or bubbling, paint and/or clearcoat peeling? Most shops would end up re-doing any prep work you already started just to cover their own rear (warranty issue) not knowing what or how you did things. I'll help you out anyway I can if your really interested in doing this. You'll need a good digital camera and another vehicle to drive, cause this is not a weekend thing. You can do it
sweet , I think the paint, generally is in good shape, but with an exception of a few minor tiny spots of rust and some scratches. There is also a little (about an inch round) patch of bubbling on one of the quarter panel near the bumper. i don't think there is any paint or clearcoat peeling.
imma try to give it to my old high school to paint, meh i know its bad but i can say i did most of the work myself and plus i just pay for paint
so to prep it do i take off the clear? or do they just paint over it
any ways thanks bro
here is some pics of my veng
« Last Edit: January 17, 2007, 10:46:28 AM by kolan »
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1995 Dodge Avenger 4 cyl - Auto Mods: Custom Door panels, Intake, 20k mi Engine, Eclipse Center Console, Sony head unit and subs
I'll try to do this in steps for you but may back track at times.
Some supplies to get you going, brought to you by 3M, lol. You will need a good automotive paint store for this stuff.
1. Masking tape, and lots of it. I recommend 3M's 233 high performance. It's bright green, and you'll need at least 2 rolls of 3/4 inch and 2 rolls of 2 inch. Probably more as we go on.
2. One box of Scotch brite scuff pads, part #07777 or something like that. I will get the number for sure tomorrow.
3. One roll of 18 inch paint resistance prep paper.
4. A knife, one called an "Olfa Knife" with break-off blade tips.
5. A good nylon plastic squeegee, 2x4 inch.
6. Sandpaper, some 320 and 500 grit to start with. If you have rust you will need 180 and 220 grit as well, along with bondo and a hardener. A sanding block is always good.
We will start with that, let me know when you have most of this stuff. Don't get discouraged, takes time and $'s to get rolling. You'll see why it cost $3000 to do this right by the time your done.
Nykon, back me up on this one (first part at least)
Your upper radiator hose is 900% in the wrong area. it should be on the passenger side, not spanning the gap and dipping low with a heat shield on it. More than likely, your engine used to be a 6g73. Check your VIN. If the 8th character is not a Y, you have a transplanted 420A.
The only reasons I've ever seen for an engine swap are:
A: Wreck that damaged the engine B: Performance
Since I don't see any obvious upgrades, that rules out B. Be careful, you may find out that the car had some major body work done to it already. If you don't know how to spot it, I'm sure Dave will tell you how.
DO NOT GIVE UP ON THIS PROJECT!! YOU HAVE A GREAT IDEA THAT SHOULD BE SEEN TO FRUITION!!
I'll try to do this in steps for you but may back track at times.
Some supplies to get you going, brought to you by 3M, lol. You will need a good automotive paint store for this stuff.
1. Masking tape, and lots of it. I recommend 3M's 233 high performance. It's bright green, and you'll need at least 2 rolls of 3/4 inch and 2 rolls of 2 inch. Probably more as we go on.
2. One box of Scotch brite scuff pads, part #07777 or something like that. I will get the number for sure tomorrow.
3. One roll of 18 inch paint resistance prep paper.
4. A knife, one called an "Olfa Knife" with break-off blade tips.
5. A good nylon plastic squeegee, 2x4 inch.
6. Sandpaper, some 320 and 500 grit to start with. If you have rust you will need 180 and 220 grit as well, along with bondo and a hardener. A sanding block is always good.
We will start with that, let me know when you have most of this stuff. Don't get discouraged, takes time and $'s to get rolling. You'll see why it cost $3000 to do this right by the time your done.
taking notes....im going to start doing my project car in the spring
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1999 Sebring LXI - 2.5 V6 - 18" Enkei Rims, Viper Alarm and Start -Daily Driver 1979 Camaro - 383 Stroker - To many to list........ - Summer and Weekends
ya me too dave imma do my car in the spring too, rite now it is covered in 10 inches of snow and ice lol.
Shiano, my vin is 4B3AU2Y5SE128680, so i guess its was originally a 420a. i bought my car about 5 months ago and the previous owner may have changed his radiator from a 6 cyl version to a 4 cyl version. Maybe from a scrap yard or something. umm is there anything i should b concerned about? lol
car history ======== Got it for 1500 bucks about 6 months ago and drove it for a total of 2 weeks lol... spent around 1000 bucks on changing interior color and sound system but need 2 grand to rebuild engine lol. imma dumb ass lol
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1995 Dodge Avenger 4 cyl - Auto Mods: Custom Door panels, Intake, 20k mi Engine, Eclipse Center Console, Sony head unit and subs
If it was the 6G73 your 8th character would be a N. I think you might have goofed one of the characters (the Y is in the 7th not 8th). If that was originally a 4 cyl, at some point and time they switched it our with a v6 radiator
they used the 6g73 code TWICE. My 99 said 6g73. i remember because i had a friend that was all into the 4g63 and we were kidding around about how my engine was 2 more on the first number and 10 more on the 63 part.
hey dave im going to move the car to my friends place to do it there. im gonna pick up some of the stuff this week.
i look at some pics of cars that are being preped, this car looks like it was black b4 but with out any clear. so im guessin i gotta sand off all the clear eh? and now i know why i need the masking tape lol.
I'll try to do this in steps for you but may back track at times.
Some supplies to get you going, brought to you by 3M, lol. You will need a good automotive paint store for this stuff.
1. Masking tape, and lots of it. I recommend 3M's 233 high performance. It's bright green, and you'll need at least 2 rolls of 3/4 inch and 2 rolls of 2 inch. Probably more as we go on.
2. One box of Scotch brite scuff pads, part #07777 or something like that. I will get the number for sure tomorrow.
3. One roll of 18 inch paint resistance prep paper.
4. A knife, one called an "Olfa Knife" with break-off blade tips.
5. A good nylon plastic squeegee, 2x4 inch.
6. Sandpaper, some 320 and 500 grit to start with. If you have rust you will need 180 and 220 grit as well, along with bondo and a hardener. A sanding block is always good.
We will start with that, let me know when you have most of this stuff. Don't get discouraged, takes time and $'s to get rolling. You'll see why it cost $3000 to do this right by the time your done.
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1995 Dodge Avenger 4 cyl - Auto Mods: Custom Door panels, Intake, 20k mi Engine, Eclipse Center Console, Sony head unit and subs
Author
b4 painting? or do they just spray over the old clear and paint. 
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, I think the paint, generally is in good shape, but with an exception of a few minor tiny spots of rust and some scratches. There is also a little (about an inch round) patch of bubbling on one of the quarter panel near the bumper. i don't think there is any paint or clearcoat peeling.
