The V2 is Aluminum (All AEM Intakes are now Aluminum) I haven't had the Injen, but the V2 is just seems perfect. The dual chamber seems to do something more (maybe it's all in my head) Before I bought the car, the kid before me had a AEM intake. It was nice, but the V2 has a better sound and feels more powerful.
Logged
titan-racing.com Medialocker.org
Mod List. Um WAY too many to fit on here. But the engine can handle about 800HP
My Injen Cyborg goes from 3" SS pipe tapering down in several steps to 2.5", but there are no separate chambers inside just straight flow. So your V2 actually has separate chambers like a muffler? Wouldn't that slow air flow? just make different sound?
you have to be very careful about that...i know sound waves and frequency has to do with air (truth be told, i did have a setup like that. not for that purpose but for insulation.) the different frequency is a different pressure drop in the surrounding air. (space is silent) sound needs a medium to travel through and i hope this insnt one of those "tornado" deals. btw, i'll do up a manifold/intake design. i already have it drawn up, but i would like you guys to see it.it will be explained and will be very logical. its also pretty neat. im not yet convinced about the V2. there could be reasons y u feel difference from the intake before yours...im not sure how much it relates to resonance tho. i will look into it and see if i can come up with something.
I understand the concept of it all, but until I see one in my hands, I really don't know. It's a good concept, but it almost looks like it would slow the air flow at the same time, by making and indirect path of flow with less staight flow "chambers". If you move your cursor across the mainpage you can see the inside of it.
For every 11 degrees (F) drop in temperature, expect a 1 horsepower gain. Expect performance to be worse if you're sucking in hot underhood temperatures. Colder air makes the motor run cooler as well as being more dense (remember Chemistry? PV = nRT?)
For every 10 F drop in temperature, expect a 1% (PERCENT, not horsepower) increase in power.
For every 10 C drop in temp, expect a 3% gain."
Editor : Does anyone absolutely sure which is it? 10 or 11 degrees?
What's ram air?
A "ram air" setup is an intake method where the force of the car travelling through the air is used to literally ram air into the intake (a hood scoop is usually a good indication)
"A "ram air" setup is an intake setup where the input end of the intake system is placed facing towards the front of the car such that it can take in air that is at a higher pressure than that in the engine bay when the car is at speed. At 60 mph, a ram air setup can provide up to 1 psi of boost, and at 100 mph, 2 psi of boost. Thus, a properly setup ram air acts like a small turbo system at high speeds (and is "free"). Keep in mind that extending the intake hose to make the ram air setup introduces pressure losses (albeit minor) as the air now has to flow through more pipe. Thus, keep the extension as short as possible."
What air filter is the best? Will more dirt be let in?
There are many concerns about aftermarket performance filters working, and which yields the biggest horsepower.
Some people swear by foam intakes (while dissenters say yes they yield more power, but let a lot of dirt in)
Others are simply satisified by K&N or S&B filters. An oiled cotton filter. The idea being the porous cotton allows the air in, the oil traps the dirt. The K&N uses electrostatic charge to attract and capture dirt and dust. The oil is positively) charged, and therefore attracts dust and dirt, which carries a (negative) charge.
Bottom line, a performance filter is better than the restrictive air box found on stock cars.
IMHO, if tuner cars (Saleen, etc) come from the dealerships with exposed K&N filters, that means something about it's performance and filtering effect.
What intake system is the best?
Much like 4.3, a very heated issue. Apparently Honda motors respond very well to cold air velocity stacked setups.
Other intakes to check out are AEM's Cold Air intake as well as the Racing Sports Akimoto Funnel Ram2 (filter made by K&N now, not S&B)
"The Iceman is made out of some plastic polymer and has a joint (connected by rubber) near where the OEM airbox goes. It has a gradual increasing diameter away from the TB so there is no need for a velocity stack. The pipe continues from the OEM location and goes down into the passenger side fender well, near where the stock resonator was located. A tight turn and the filter is angled almost parallel to the ground. Dont know what size filter but it is constructed by K&N. You can get flashy colors, and convert the kit to a non cold air setup by connecting the filter where the rubber joint is instead of at the extreme end of the pipe.
The AEM is made of coated aluminum to resist heat and is a 2.5-3" pipe I believe. There are no joints on this system. It simply curves down to the fender well, near where the stock resonator was located. A "turbo air horn" velocity stack connects the filter to the pipe.
Both systems should give similar dyno results. I would expect no more than 6-8 hp from either. Some people swear by ICEMAN, but I prefer AEM's design myself. Both cost around $210...but can probably be had for cheaper. ICEMAN is nice because of its versatility (dry land setup or wet land setup). The AEM system is a full time dry land setup."
You may also want to DIY and make your own effective intake kit with dryer hose for your cold air.
Be careful with cold air systems as they may allow the engine to suck in water (in wetter areas) Excessive water in the engine will damage the engine seriously.
What's a bored out throttle body?
The throttle body is the device which regulates air into the engine via the gas pedal. By enlarging it's size you can allow more air to flow through (hence more power) Be careful removing too much material.
Currently JG Engine Dynamics, RC Engineering, Bullfrog GUDE, and AEM perform the boring. Expect a gas mileage decrease too. A bigger throttle body helps aggressive cams idle better. In fact some cams require a bored throttle body.
Throttle bodies allow more air flow across the board, so you should see an increase in power across the RPM board of about 3-5hp.
Throttle bodies should lean out air/fuel ratio so you shouldn't have a smog problem.
What's the coolant bypass modification?
Radiator fluid is passed through the throttle body to keep it from freezing shut. This also heats the air going into the motor. By removing the lines from the throttle body and connecting them together, you avoid the air heating up. So expect more power. Don't do this if it snows in your town.
Another easy modification to cool things off is locating the coolant pipes that lead to the throttle body, and using a "Straight T" attach them. This will bypass the throttle body and keep it cool. After all these modifications, I used an air temperature meter to compare this system and my AEM cold air system. The AEM system runs 72-152 degrees, while my system runs a cool 58-110 degrees.
WARNING! You may not want to do this trick since it may cause your car's warming up idle to fluctuate! Somehow you need to warm up the fast idle thermo valve (which mounts on the underside of the TB and the hoses connect to). Once someone figures out how to keep this happy, it should be a streetable modification.
Why does my car idle bad after a t-body swap?
"Thanks to everyone that tried to help me out with my JG Throttle Body problems... I have solved it!
When I installed the throttle body, I disconnected the battery as to reset the ECU. For some reason it didn't reset I guess.
I went out and purchased a Chiltons manual and tried what it said to disconnect the "BACKUP" fuse "HAZARD, BACKUP) <-for Canadian, in the underhood relay box. I then restarted the car, and it idled great! I adjusted the idle screw back UP! The opposite of what I thought.
I don't know why the first ECU reset didn't do it, but the second time around solved it."
"I had the same problem when I did my TB. I couldn't figure it out for months. It was fluctuating, and surging. Finally, DPR suggested this and it worked. The throttle position sensor is behind the TB and secured by two allen head screws. Simply loosen them, and rotate the sensor up or down until idle is smooth. Tighten the screws and you're done. My idle is now perfect and it only took 3 months to figure out and 5 minutes to do."
Why do I need to port match my intake manifold?
The throttle body mounts to the intake manifold. Honda also places a gasket to seal these two parts together. By enlarging the throttle body opening, the intake manifold and the gasket no longer match the throttle body's opening. Imagine trying to flow air through a 5 inch opening then suddenly run into a 4 inch section. This situation may hamper air velocity more than the added value of allowing more air through the throttle body itself. Be sure to get your intake manifold match ported.
What is extrude hone?
This is a process of pushing an abrasive mud-like compound through engine parts where air, fuel, or exhaust flow through. The parts become very smoothed out and to some extent enlargened. Speedline's DRAG turbo-equipped Integra showed a ~5++hp gain across the RPM board after an extrude honed intake manifold was added on. Probably doesn't make much of a difference on cars that aren't supercharged or turbocharged.
What's a resonator? Why should I remove it?
The resonator is a plastic box that is mounted below and joining to the stock air intake box. It's purpose is to silence the air entering your engine. By removing the resonator box you open up the engine to more cooler air. For all manufactured cold air intakes, you must remove the resonator. A good trick to do is to remove the resonator and put some dryer hose in it's place to further channel cooler air into the engine.
Why should I adjust my throttle cable?
As your new car breaks in, so does the throttle cable. It may develop slack over time that actually may prohibit you throttle body from ever seeing WOT. This is bad for power. If you have a friend press all the way down on the gas pedal, you can then verify the throttle cable is indeed opening the throttle body all the way.
What is the Tornado and how does it work?
"To those who don't know, The "Tornado" is some aluminum or tin circular doo dad wth angled fins that is placed in the air intake tube. It's supposed to make the passing air swirl to better mix with the fuel for more power and efficiency. They cost something ridiculous like $70+, and here is my experience.
First of all, it was given to me, I wouldn't pay that for something claiming 10%+ or something in power (too good to be true). I put it in my '90 integra, just behind the K&N filter. All it did was made a really neat sound. Next time I checked on it, it had slid all the way to the throttle body and was sideways, so I got some tin and extended it, plus added a fin (yep, you can make your own). I put it back in, I think in front of the TB, and went on a long trip. I matched my previously best milage, 600Kms by the time the gas light comes on. Coincidence??? I had even wasted some gas on that trip racing a VR6. Since then, there were no noticable gains, so I took it out and put it in my brothers civic and he didn't notice a thing. I think it's still there, probably sitting sideways."
How do I clean a HKS filter?
"Most foam or gauze filters are washable. First step is to check for damage - holes, rips.. Hold'em up to the light to find rips. If they're ok, then move on to cleaning. I think the best way to clean them is to shake them up at first to get the bigger chunks off and then proceed to use a hose to spray the filter from the inside out. Spraying it from the exterior would push dirt into the interior side of the filter, an undesirable result. Also, set up your hose to not spray water at full blast but at a flow that will clean without breaking apart the material. If the filter's a foam one, don't use the K&N cleaning kits as those will dissolve foam. The cleaning kits are good for gauze/cotton reusable filters, which usually require re-oiling after cleaning. Foamies just need to be air dried before being reinstalled on the intake..
For the anally retentive, cleaning out the intake pipes might not be a bad idea since they sometimes get a thin coat of dirt. Just make sure you dry the thing out before reinstalling. It's not so hard to do so why not do it when you clean the filter too...
I've seen tons of members hydrolock their motors ....Like I said not really worth the risk ... Hydrolock=water sucked into the motor,normally DESTROYING the motor ,I've even seen several do it with the bypass valves installed
Damn Jeff, that's depressing. I had plan on getting a by pass valve, a hard rain can make mine stumble, car wash=forget it. Now it's just a fair weather friend, truck the other days.
The ones that hydrolocked WITH the bypass were in REALLY deep water it appears that large volumes of waters either overwhelms the valve or the water with the oil on the foam make a seal that allows the water to go thru ...It's definately better to HAVE it then not have it ...It's saved many cars ,including mine back in the day ....
Really? who in their right mind drives into standing water? not knowing how deep it is? It's not smart, regardless of a CAI, you can still hydro-lock a stock intake engine. I have no bypass on my Injen nor could I hook one up ( my pipe too big), but I've driven in the rain and no hydro-lock.
Author
Logged
