K.. I *THINK* the neons are fixed once n for all. I spent all afternoon checking out the problem, and going back n forth to Canadian Tire (which is basically a big hardware store...sorta). First, I was just gonna swap out the switch...but the only one they had was a sick jet style switch (with the colored cover that you switch off, then flick the switch). I was gonna buy it, then the guy told me it was 35 bucks...so I laughed in his face n went home. So then....I continued my investigation...found the problem wire/connector, realized that the connector was messed up and I couldn't fix it...so I went back...bought the right connector (after buying one that was only a hair too small), connected everything up...and now I THINK they're fixed once n for all.
I know...it was useless telling you all my adventure of the day...but hopefully some of you enjoyed it...lol
Yea...okay. Ground wire for the neons...do I need any special grade wire? Or can I just "micky mouse" it with any random wire I have lying around? I was trying to expose a little more of the wire so I could get a better connection, but I accidently cut right through the wire. So, now it's too short. Any ideas? Can I just expose some more of that wire, and attach a second short wire to it, put some electrical tape over the connection, and go from there?
Do the color of the wires make a big difference? Or do I need to use the same color wires for it?
colors wont matter unless someone else besides u will be working on it w/o ur supervision. its just for recognition...like everything else that is color coded. $35 for a switch..i could make one for less than quarter the price...and what u said about cutting should be perfectly fine...for neons...i dont know how thick the wire has to be..but u dont have to worry about the surface area, it should be fine. u wont have that many amps going through..otherwise u would need a new battery and alternator. go ahead and good luck.
Well...I tryed my best this morning. The whole neon system uses 18 guage alumnium wire (which, btw, isn't easy to find!...lol). I ended up buying 18 guage copper wire...tryed to do the connection, but so far...they aren't working. They might work...because the entire system has always been tempermental...and it could still be the switch. Right now, i'm at a stand still because there's really not much else I could do, other than trying to find another switch and check it out.
Or...I MAY still be able to do all the connections with the shortened original wire. It's a long shot, but I could try it.
Well...I managed to get my hands on some 18 guage alumnium wire!...lol At least, it looks like 18 guage. We had someone rip out the old fan at work, and sitting on the generator, were 3 18 guage alumnium wires! I almost tripped out when I saw them. I'm going to go try and connect them all up now and see what happens.
I am not sure about automotive neons because they are DC but they might have a ballast like with an AC setup (ie. neons in signs, lights etc.) that might be what is causing your problem.
the car battery is DC. I dont know what u mean by ballast but unless those neons came from signs lol, there shouldnt be AC conflict. if it stil dont work...and im guessing it will, u could get a multi-meter and check the current both ways, i.e, check current in one direction and then the other..it should work in both directions, cept one way it'll give u a negative number. if its AC, then it'll only give a reading in one direction. i highly doubt u will have to do this. copper 16 gauge is used for most of the electricals in the car and should work for ur neons no problem. let us know how the ALuminum turns out.
I am not saying that they are AC, but there should be a control box or some kind of transformer or ballast for them. Neons are not like regular light bulbs.
Optx (streetglow) has their transformers as a detachable unit and normally plugs into the lighter.
this is how it hooks up: [neon] ==> O [transformer ----- lighter]
You know how our cars have a "fade" feature on the interior lights? I installed a 6" neon directly into where the 194 bulb goes under the dash and it did the fade thing which is what i was going for (my old wrecked 99 ES). however, i didn't shield the blade terminals i used (so i could return it to stock later) and they touched. popped fuse, transformer and neon. I replaced all three and it didn't work again (neon). I hooked the stock 194 bulb back up and it DID work.
so any idea why the neon wouldn't after the other one did before and the stock did?
my idea was for blue underdash so that when i opened the door you could SEE the floorboard and when you closed it it would fade out as if you walking away from your car took the life from it.
it was hooked into the wire directly w/ the transformer. the first blue one wouldn't work without the trans.
K...well...they worked. Sorta. Yesterday, after I hooked up everything in the middle of the day, I managed to see the blue lights. They were working fine. Closed it all up...checked them again...and nothing...lol I gave up for a few hours...then checked again last night. Flip the switch, nothing...The switch was even fading in and out, depending on how far it was switched to the "on" side. So I popped the panel again, and the second I go and take the switch out of it's little hole, I get sparks flyinf...lol I check all the wires...making sure they're making the connection to the switch, try the switch agan, and nothing. I put it all back on then I toggled the switch a few times, and I'm getting the neons to flicker on, but they won't stay on. I'm almost 100% certain that it's the switch itself now...lol It's a peice of crap thats pretty much falling apart....so...what's the worse that can happen eh?
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