Well gang, I've replaced the TPS and the problem did not go away. I then proceeded to replace the PCV valve (a friend said his wife's car was doing pretty much the same thing and it ended up being the PCV valve, and since—upon checking it—mine has pretty much gone bad, and it was an easy, cheap fix, I went ahead and replaced it as well). And, you've guessed it, the problems are still occuring. My car is still stalling out on me and my gas mileage is still crummy. I've been kinda giving it a little bit-o-time in between "fixes" to see what happens, so that's why there has been so much time lapse between updates. However, I will say that the new parts seem to have alleviated the problems somewhat.
Today my venge sputtered a bit while going down the road and then it started revving funny. When I parked it, it revved up to about 1,500rpm and slowly came down to normal—taking approx. 1 to 2 min to do so. This is the second time that has happened, once before replacing the TPS and once after. I'm running outta options (and patience) with this, and Advance Auto and AutoZone stated they can't read for a code unless the check engine light is actively on at the time. If I could get some codes read, I might would be able to better narrow my problem down. My CEL has only come on twice during this whole ordeal, and doesn't stay on but until I shut the car off. Seems like it should come back on when the car is started up again, but it doesn't.
My car only presents the symptoms when idling, coming to a stop, or when I let off the accelerator for whatever reason I may need to do so—whether it be to adjust speed or to come to a stop. And even then it's extremely sporatic. Could it be a bad IAC? Clogged catalytic converter? Busted EGR valve? A combination of two or more of these? As I've mentioned, I can't get a code reading so I can't really narrow it down easily. As usual, all advice is appreciated. Thanks for the advice so far.
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i'm a peripheral visionary. i can see into the future, but way off to the side.
(not sure what to say, so i'll try a logical solution) definitely isnt misfire. so the block itself is fine. check the temp. sensor...clean it. y dont you get the car running, go to the engine and rev it to see what happens. im pretty sure if ur actually looking into ur tb as this is happening you will see what happens. if this only happens while the car is in motion...then u may have motion sickness lol jk. but seriously, rev it up, check it, check temp sensor. these are the easiest i see right now. if those dont clear it, not sure what will.
I would say that might be in the equation, but the car will shut off almost immediately after being started up from time to time as well. Sorry, failed to add that tid-bit of info earlier . Could the temp. sensor be causing this when the car is being started up cold?
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i'm a peripheral visionary. i can see into the future, but way off to the side.
I'm running outta options (and patience) with this, and Advance Auto and AutoZone stated they can't read for a code unless the check engine light is actively on at the time.
BULLSH*T!!! send me a text on my cell at 7703243588@vtext.com (prefferably from your cell) TODAY (thursday, 30th) with the store number (found at the top of any Advance receipt) because I work at Advance and that is NOT part of our policies. If we (some employess) don't feel like walking outside and checking it then we get lucky if the CEL isn't on. I've pulled BAD codes before from several that didn't have the light on.
This is how you'll be able to find out what store it is w/o calling
my store number is 6250.
if nothing else text me the number for the store w/ area code and i may give you a call right after you do (after 4 please). I expect this from AutoZone definitely but not from my company.
Thanks Shiano, but I decided to just go out to Advance (b/c AutoZone said they can't read any vehicle older than '96) and tell 'em my check engine light came on and to see if they could pull the code(s). I originally called to make sure they could indeed pull the code(s). Did that, and when they found out it was a '95 Dodge Avenger, they told me they couldn't pull it b/c it's an "import" (due to the Mitsubishi engine). Well, the dude that was trying to help me did go out there, but he couldn't find anywhere to plug the reader in. So, someone elsewhere explained the key dance to me, and when I did it some codes came up. Unfortunately, I wasn't paying attention when they started b/c the guy distracted me, but he was looking. Double unfortunately, he apparently didn't fully understand how to read them and only managed to come up with 55 (which, according to this site, is just to tell you there is no more codes to be read). There had to have been more than one code b/c the light flashed forever, but since I didn't catch the beginning I had no way of knowing what they all are. Doesn't help any that that was my first time ever doing that. I did it again when I got back to work to see if I could get them all that time. Well, apparently once it shows the codes it erases them from memory or something b/c nothing came up that time. Any advice in regards to this?
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i'm a peripheral visionary. i can see into the future, but way off to the side.
is your system a true ODB I? if it is an OBD II you will have a connector under the dash RIGHT UNDER the steering column. it will look like so........
i know its a crude drawing. i really wish you were SO much closer to here b/c not all of the Advance stores use the RIGHT code reader. they end up "breaking" the one that is given and have to pull one off the shelf if they don't order one from home office. the original one reads the OBDI/II codes and PRINTS them out for you to read.
I conferred with my manager and we came to the conclusion that this could be your IAC (Idle Air Control Valve). If you haven't replaced it yet, you may need to. /\ if the tip is far enough out the you can see the spring, it needs to be replaced. unfortunately this unit is a replace only. some IAC's can be cleaned. this one can't.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2007, 12:08:35 AM by Shiano »
I believe it's an ODB 1. I drive a '95 Avenger, and I believe those have the ODB 1.
I don't recall seeing a connector under the steering column, but I'll double check. Oh yeah, the pics you posted aren't showin up… at least not on my computer, home or at work.
Thank you for taking the time to talk about this with someone else. I appreciate that, along with everyone else's input. The IAC was going to be my next step. It's never been replaced (to my knowledge) and has ~140,000 miles on it. As I've posted earlier, I've already replaced my TPS and PCV valve, to no avail. Seems like a lot of the symptoms are pointing, more and more, to the IAC valve, so I think that's going to be my next step—prob shoulda been my first. Oh well. Unless anyone else has some knowledge that may point elsewhere, I'll most likely be replacing the IAC within the next coupla weeks. I'll keep y'all posted on the results. Thanks again to you all.
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i'm a peripheral visionary. i can see into the future, but way off to the side.
*throwing towel in* Well folks, I give up. I've changed the IAC, TPS, & PCV valve to no avail. Those have been the prevailing remedy suggestions to my problem thus far. But I've also heard everything from it possibly being my spark plugs to my distributer (seems like every time I mention my issues to someone I get a different possibility of what could be causing them). I really don't understand why my car is still sporatically shutting off, and not giving any codes or anything of that nature. It boggles my mind. I'm dumbfounded. I'm just gonna have to take it to a shop, but unfortunately it's gonna have to wait a lil longer as I've been way too busy to deal with it—thank God it's not being a major nuisance and hopefully it's not further damaging my engine or anything. Of course, I'm not driving it unless I absolutely have to right now.
I will say it has not been shutting off near as often. It mainly does so now almost immediately after being cranked up. It'll do that initial rev, then idle back down and shut off. But it's only doing that about once every 10 to 15 cranks. I'll start it back up and presto-chango all is well. I don't get it . The car shows no apparent signs of "illness" but it is obviously sick. Anyway, a big thanks to all who have done their best to help me with these issues. I truly do appreciate it. Karma for you all!
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i'm a peripheral visionary. i can see into the future, but way off to the side.
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. Could the temp. sensor be causing this when the car is being started up cold?
. The car shows no apparent signs of "illness" but it is obviously sick. Anyway, a big thanks to all who have done their best to help me with these issues. I truly do appreciate it. Karma for you all!
