Hahn turbo systems can be had from www.howellautomotive.com . They're a very nice well put together kit that have various options from non intercooled all the way up to a nice bolt on fmic for avenger/sebrings.
Star turbo systems are also out there but i cannot think of a vendor at the moment. They're not as complete as a hahn setup, and the instructions are a bit worse, however they can make more power due to the larger t3/t4 turbo and are a few bucks cheaper
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1997 Dodge Avenger - 2.2 liter stroker, equal length turbo manifold, 3" exhaust, standalone, 3spd drag tranny, and much much more..... 2003 Dodge SRT-4 - big fmic, zex direct port nitrous, wga, greddy type S, 3" Thermal exhaust, s-afc and avc-
James 1996 Dodge Avenger 2.4L Hybrid - RETIRED 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Comp-G - SOLD 1999 Dodge Avenger 5spd all stock, - SOLD 1995 Nissan 240sx Project Car 2007 Hyundai Accent SR - DD
psi of boost means jack, it's how much cfm ur throwing at it. A hahn stage 2 @ 10psi will run for ages, a star may not, however that star will make the same power @ 7-8psi that the hahn makes @ 10. a gt35r would eclipse both of those @ 10psi by leaps and bounds. Set more of a horsepower level, and go with the medium sized turbo for that application (gives a bit to grow, and doesn't run the compressor at it's higher limits)
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1997 Dodge Avenger - 2.2 liter stroker, equal length turbo manifold, 3" exhaust, standalone, 3spd drag tranny, and much much more..... 2003 Dodge SRT-4 - big fmic, zex direct port nitrous, wga, greddy type S, 3" Thermal exhaust, s-afc and avc-
Honestly, i've got about $7000 to spend on my motor. Any recommendations on which way to go? Any kinda help would be greatly appreciated. I'm new to the import scene. I can do my own motor work as having built many V-8's. Thanks again for the help.
Could ya'll help me out wit what to get, like parts and where to get em. I have a good machine shop. I have an automatic tranny and would like to switch to a manual. Anyone done a swap of that sort? Thanks again for all the help. It is greatly appreciated.
The tranny itself won't be hard it's all the extras, linkage, hydraulic lines and such. As for doing the block up. People have different opinions on brand names. When I finally have the money, I'll be getting Eagle H-beam rods, and Eagle pistons. With a turbo you want to run a lower compression to start with, so most recommend an 8.8:1 ratio. Get the block chemically treated and bore that out to accomadate the sized piston you get. Get a forged crankshaft, and all new pulleys for the tensioner system. Then build the block, if you're comfortable do it, otherwise take it somewhere. As for the head pull off all the stock stuff, open the valves up 1mm over and give it a 5-angle valve job for better airflow. Get the 1mm oversized valves, titanium retainers, springs, Turbo Grind Camshafts, and a good set of camgears. Put the head together. Get some ARP head bolts and bolt the head on. Get the timing set. Get a high flow intake manifold. Venom or OBX has them, I"m sure others do too, but those are the common ones. Get a 60mm or 66mm throttlebody. Then get your turbo set up. That is in itself is a whole project. I haven't messed to much with turbo set ups so I'll leave that to someone else to guide you. You'll want to get a better fuel pump, injectors and rail. The more fuel and air you can give that engine the better and faster it'll be. So everything that increases fuel/air is a good buy. After the engine is all set, get a set of fidenza axles. And upgrade you brake system. I use these two sites the most for pricing, but I'm sure eBay and other sites can beat prices.
Exileracing.com Conceptillusions.com
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titan-racing.com Medialocker.org
Mod List. Um WAY too many to fit on here. But the engine can handle about 800HP
Tranny, you have a choice of stock 3.94 gearing or 3.55 gearing from the neon/pt cruisers. Taller gearing will help with traction for higher hp cars, just make sure you also have a bellhousing setup for the hydraulic clutch as early neons had manual clutches. Rear tranny mount bracket Manual ECU (same year as your engine) Modular clutch and throwout bearing Flywheel-dont know for sure but I had one so I used it. Bolts from the flywheel to the crank (they are shorter) & from the flywheel to clutch. Clutch pedal & brake pedal Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder Hydralic lines Shifter and linkage Bolts for the shifter shifter boot
You do not need the axles. The old ones will work.
If you just want 200-250whp, a well-tuned, good condition stock motor will be fine.
If you want more than 300whp, youll need at least pistons and rods if you plan on having the motor run at that level for any substanial amount of time.
Your stock head is good for that power level and well above -- that doesnt mean there isnt power to be made in the head, just that the stock head and cams can and has supported over 500hp.
The stock pistons absolutely will not however, and stock rods are the next weakpoint, though they will support quite a bit more power than the pistons can.
Stock pistons are a cheap cast piece, and crack very easily under any slight detonation at boost levels over 10-12psi. They are also prone to heat fatigue, which just means the weaken overtime due to higher combustion chamber temps -- this is what happened to me. Most people blow their motor when it starts pinging, the rest of us blow em just because we beat the excrement out of em and eventually it gives.
Forged pistons are a MUST. CP and JE are highly recomemnded, CP more so than JE, but they are a lot more expensive. I would avoid wiseco, as the silica content is a lot different than JE/CP and they do not expand as much as the other two. I run JE's, but would prefer CP -- its just a money thing. You have a lot of other options there as well, whatever your preference is for. Compression range should be in the 8.1:1 to 9:1 range for a street driven turbo car you plan on running pump gas in (93 octane) - 8.6:1 and 8.8:1 are the usual favorites. If your planning on building a motor that will see nothing but 110+ octane fuels, you can bump the compression up a bit if you like running on that ragged edge for max power.
Rods: Several different options. 1- Have your stock rods shot-peened and polished. This will help strengthen the rods for a bit more abuse. Can usually be done for 30-60 a rod at a good machine shop. Dont expect miracles, but its better than nothing.
2- Cheap forged rods. Eagles rods can be found for ~300 a set, and are good for 400+hp. On a budget, this is what I would recomend vs saving 100-200 by reusing stock rods.
3- Good (expensive) forged rods. Crower, Saenz, etc. 600-1000 a set, but will hold 2-3 times the power than an eagle rod and are lighter to boot. I originally had a set of saenz rods (~$700/set), but when i spun a rod bearing, I blued on of the caps. A replacement rod was $250, so i just got a new set of eagle's for ~$300.
The stock crank will hold over 800hp -- no need for a forged crank, and good luck finding one anyways, at least without having to sacrifice your first born child.
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