that's a tight fit. looks great. hope you can fit a sway bar into that later on. do you have a guess on the weight difference with the v8+trans over stock?
I'm pretty sure the V8 is heavier, but because the weight of the transmission is distributed more to the back it seems to put about the same load on the front end. When it is on it's wheels I can bounce my body weight up and down on the front end and the car handles it without any problem. Like I mentioned earlier it actaully sits a little higher in the front with the V8 but as I reinstall the components like the steering it is likely to squat back down to a perfect height. I still have some heavy items left like starter, alternator powersteering pump, radiator, carborator, exhaust, etc.
just out of curiousity, was it originally a v6 or i4?
The car was originally a 4 cylinder with a manual trans. It is a Base model, but has power windows, door locks and seat with a sun roof and 16 inch wheels (I believe 14 inch was standard for base).
I now have the back end of the car up on stands and have measured the rear end width. Looks like I'm after a rear end with an overall width of 62 inches and a 4.5 inch (114.3mm) bolt pattern. That pretty much excludes all GM rearends (4.75 bolt circle). I think the Ford Ranger 8.8 rearend might be too narrow. I'm going to try and measure an 8.25 rearend out of a Dodge Dakota on thursday (1987 to 1990 are 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern).
« Last Edit: July 19, 2006, 12:35:35 PM by V8 Sleeper »
you could get a GSX gastank, a ford IRS rear end (or vette d44) and install that into a GSX rwd subframe..
just adapt the axles and run your driveshaft..
you maintain the stock suspension geometry (which works well) and can get a real rearend in there.
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2001 Sebring Coupe - V6 5sp 1995 Sebring Coupe - I4 5sp Political correctness advocates the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
you could get a GSX gastank, a ford IRS rear end (or vette d44) and install that into a GSX rwd subframe..
just adapt the axles and run your driveshaft..
you maintain the stock suspension geometry (which works well) and can get a real rearend in there.
Just a reminder to everyone that reads this, I'm trying to get the car rolling again on a $2,500 budget. If that wasn't the case, I obviously wouldn't be putting in a crappy old 305 SBC and would likely be going with something like a Ford 9" rearend with fourlink and coilovers. But I have to take what I can get. Phase II will be performance enhancements, but lets first see if I can pull this thing off.
I've found a Dakota rearend at Watkins salvage yard locally about 9 miles from my house that I will be likely buying this Saturday complete with springs and driveshaft for $150. I almost made the mistake of looking for a rearend that is 62 inches wide, that is the width with the weight off the rearend and the suspension hinged down. With the weight on the wheels they spread out to approximately 64 inches. My rough measurement of the Dakota rearend is 63 inches. That would move the tires in 1/2 inch on each side which I don't think will be noticeable.
« Last Edit: July 22, 2006, 02:00:47 AM by V8 Sleeper »
I just want to say one more time that I really can't wait to see this. I must wish you good luck sir, and I hope that transmission works out smoothly and everything. Once again good luck.
I wish I could say things were going faster, but all I have for you today are pictures of the old rearend pulled out. I'm waiting for the junkyard to pull the rearend for me but they are really busy and the weather hasn't been the greatest. Should have it in the next couple of days.
Here are pictures of the gas tank and rearend removed:
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