My car had been running like a bag of crap latley so i have been replacing things. I replaced the O2 sensor which made the car run fine. However, the next day it would not idle so i replaced thi IAC. Now it runs very well and idles nice. The problem is occasionally it will start to run real rich while driving(my A/F gauge tells me) and will start to flood and run like crap. After about 30 seconds of this it runs perfect again. I installed crane nitrous/street grind #12 cams and gears and replaced all the internalls with new. Any Suggestions
that could be a few things, first thing i'd suggest though would be checking grounds everywhere. faulty reading on anything can cause it to go rich, and with it being such an intermittent problem that's what i'd lead it to.
other things to help the search would be a FULL SCALE datalogger that reads everything, watch o2 voltages and when they go whack, check all other sensors and see where the problem is
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1997 Dodge Avenger - 2.2 liter stroker, equal length turbo manifold, 3" exhaust, standalone, 3spd drag tranny, and much much more..... 2003 Dodge SRT-4 - big fmic, zex direct port nitrous, wga, greddy type S, 3" Thermal exhaust, s-afc and avc-
I had a simular problem. My RPM's would climb then return to normal. I wrote the editor at Mopar Action Magazine. He suggested I change the Throttle Position Sensor. I did and the problem went away. Before I wrote him I changed plugs, wires, IAC, O2 sensors and cleaned the throttle body. Everything I did made the car run fine for a day but the problem returned. After changing the TPS the problem is gone forever.
i had the same problem.. you really need a proper ODB scanner.
Mine was 100% related to bad grounds.. make sure the ECU ground is proper.
You need to remove the air box (if it isn't already out) and the fuse box.. and there is a bolt that ties about 4 black 18ga wires to teh frame.. make sure they arent corroded.. you may want to tie them directly to the battery as well instead of to the frame.
Also.. there is a ground distribution on the firewall (flat black box with about 5 black wires coming out of it).. it's another ECU ground. Tie it to the battery as well.
good luck with it.
-- Dave
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2001 Sebring Coupe - V6 5sp 1995 Sebring Coupe - I4 5sp Political correctness advocates the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
do our cars hold intermittent codes. everytime it does this the check engine light comes on then goes out. a key dance gives no codes.
they do hold a history, but it's limited. Find somebody with a good datalogger to run it down the street and try and duplicate it, otherwise you're always just going to be going off of what it MIGHT be
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1997 Dodge Avenger - 2.2 liter stroker, equal length turbo manifold, 3" exhaust, standalone, 3spd drag tranny, and much much more..... 2003 Dodge SRT-4 - big fmic, zex direct port nitrous, wga, greddy type S, 3" Thermal exhaust, s-afc and avc-
btw, i like how this board tells u another reply has came in once you try and submit it lol,
but btw dave, jinx! u owe me a pop!
hockey pop or regular pop?
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2001 Sebring Coupe - V6 5sp 1995 Sebring Coupe - I4 5sp Political correctness advocates the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
2001 Sebring Coupe - V6 5sp 1995 Sebring Coupe - I4 5sp Political correctness advocates the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.
tellin ya, get a good obd scanner and drive around with it. Even w/o knowing much about a car u can watch for big jumps in voltages, and just by looking you can get a feel of what the ranges should be. That's how i learned everything I know basically, asking questions and just going right out and toying with it
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1997 Dodge Avenger - 2.2 liter stroker, equal length turbo manifold, 3" exhaust, standalone, 3spd drag tranny, and much much more..... 2003 Dodge SRT-4 - big fmic, zex direct port nitrous, wga, greddy type S, 3" Thermal exhaust, s-afc and avc-
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