The crank sensor is located behind the alternator and above your oil filter, check the connection. Make sure it is attached properly and that all terminals are straight, tight and free of corrosion. If you want to test it, you will need an oscilloscope. the output voltage of a properly operating CPS switches fromhigh (5.0 volts) to low (0.3 volts). By connecting an oscilloscope to the sensor output circuit, you can view the square wave pattern produced by the voltage swing.
That sounds impressive, but thank Chiltons, I just type it. Hang in there. Let us know how it goes and we'll go from there.
Code 43 also includes the coil, sure it's good? Might try the fuel filter, but I have yet to hear of one go bad. Maybe your the first . Have you tried leaving the fuel pressure gauge on till it warms up and dies on you? Is it losing pressure then? If not, I'm leaning towards the coil. Any auto store around that have a DRB (diagnostic readout box) that you could get a read off of? Would be able to narrow it down with a diagnostic trouble code.
Fella's fella's, I manage a paint shop for a living. I could easily correct that nasty 'ol carbon fiber look. Meanwhile, March is just around the corner, pinch those pennies!
Not much help from me, but a word of caution. Some guys have melted their head/fog lights trying to do the HID thing, do your research. Flames coming from the front of your car might look cool, but it leaves a mess.
I've seen tons of members hydrolock their motors ....Like I said not really worth the risk ... Hydrolock=water sucked into the motor,normally DESTROYING the motor ,I've even seen several do it with the bypass valves installed
Damn Jeff, that's depressing. I had plan on getting a by pass valve, a hard rain can make mine stumble, car wash=forget it. Now it's just a fair weather friend, truck the other days.