OK You want to lower your car , First off how do you drive it ....
Is the car a daily driver ?? or is it an all out show car??Is the car kitted??what are your local roads like??Snow and ice in the winter?? All of these will influence what type of lowering you might want ...
For a Daily driver I highly suggest a Drop spring , less maintenance/more reliable/Easier on the wallet
All out show car/kitted Think about coilovers or the Tiens for adjustability , ability to slam at shows
Bad local roads /big potholes/steep drives/roadkill galore think of a lesser drop or coilovers/tiens
Snow and ice in winter /think coilovers or tiens for ability to raise it back up for winter(will require alignment)

OK Now What do I need:
Lowering springs that WORK:
Eibach pro kit 1.8" drop settles to about a 2" drop
Suspension Techniques 1.3" drop settles to about 1.75" drop
Intrax 2" drop settles to around 3" drop or more
Dropzone 2" drop settles to 3" or more
OK these are from MY experience on a V6 ... I HIGHLY recommend either the Eibach Pro kit or the Suspension Tech springs... They provide the BEST stock like ride and are VERY drivable on less then perfect roads...
IMO The Intrax and Dropzone springs are VERY VERY low and VERY VERY bouncy
they seem to be remarketed Eclipse springs that have too low of a spring rate to handle the V6 ...

Coilovers that WORK:
Maxspeed/Dreamspeed coilovers
SkunkII Coilovers
These provide good spring rates/driveability and adjustability... They Require an experienced installer to give best results...Poor installation you will have noises bumps rattles ect that will never go away ... Properly installed they are descent but require modification of the struts that VOID warranty...
I DO NOT suggest getting no name ebay coilovers for the eclipse , With too low of spring rates they WILL collapse/They will ride poorly/You will end up replacing them ... Even some Named coilovers will not hold Up , I purchased a set of WeaponR's and they were junk after 3 months...

Tien all in one unit
These include coilovers AND Strut combo's built together ...These are 95/99Eclipse parts but have a high enough spring rate to work
These have great spring rates, are made as a unit so you do not have to assemble them are very reliable and easy to replace the entire suspension...There are several Tien units from the basic to the EDFC adjustable

Struts:
Will I need Struts , YES any lowering will require struts... Can I use my stock struts?? Yes but they will blow and be worthless in no time...So WHY bother, I don't care if you are broke, save your money do it once and do it right !!!
KYB GR2's are very inexpensive CAN be used , But IMO they are not the RIGHT choice they are basically Upgraded stockers... Many have used them , but they fail pretty soon on Springs that are 2" or more, Same with coilovers

KYB AGX's Are more money/more adjustable hold up well to being lowered/ there are two part#'s one for 2" lower one for lower then 2" The lower set is better for coilover use as they have a shorter rod and prevent BOTTOMING...

Koni and Tokkiko both make excellent struts but are normally more expensive and harder to find...

Camber Kits:
After lowering will I need a Camber kit YES you will definately need at least a REAR KIT, this can be done with longer bolts and washers, OR you can purchase a premade kit
Will I need a front kit POSSIBLY I've dropped numerous cars for members/non members and here's what I have found, I've seen 1.3" springs require no kit to up to a 3 degree kit ... What I suggest is dropping the car/let springs settle for at least a week then take the car in for an alignment check, they can then get the car up on a rack and TELL you what kit you will need.... Do your homework on the alignment shop ask locals with local cars that are dropped where they got the alignments done... Try to use a shop thats used to lowered cars and able to get them up on the ramp...

OK how much will all this cost me
Plan on spending around $1000 on parts/alignment ... If you are not a do it yourselfer then add $300 for labor to install some shops will be more/less depending on your area.. Of course those prices are new parts , you might be able to get a deal on used parts but remember you can't be sure on used struts...

If you look close they are all skulls ... he painted it the week before the show

I didn't like the paint color ect but the fit ect was nice

heres some pics to inspire you :

There were carbon fiber panels left over from any venge that got a carbon trunk (they didn't fit the venge)

The ground wires are junk .... the block corodes badly leaving you with worse resistance then what you have now ...
best way is to buy stereo wire and make your own

factory is 6 3/4'rs ... 6.5s work with redrilling

WHERE is the exhaust leak

all you need is the bumper cover , and fog lights (if so equipped) from the avenger  97+
emblem is sticckied on and easily removed

Cheat call the parts store and ask for each and see if they are the same part #

If it's the backlight bulb it's in the center you can reach it if you have narrew hands or remove the radio

I bought some liquid nitrogen ...ready to go ...

power seats if equipped and seatbelt light

To take out the dash you first need to disconnect the battery, then
turn the
ignition key to
on and leave it for 30 minutes or so. This will drain the power to the
airbags.
I would suggest taking out both seats, which is just two 1/2" bolts on
each
side in the
back, and two 1/2" nuts on each side in the front. And unplug the
harness
under the
driver's seat.
To get started you have to remove everything you see from the interior.
1) Remove the center console
a) Pop out the trim panel around the radio
b) Pop out the top of the console and unplug the wires to the
lighter
c) Remove the center console by unscrewing the two visable screws,
one on
each side
of the rear of the console, then the two screws which are under where
the
cup holder
would be. Then two screws right above where the radio would be. And
disconnect the
wires for the rear courtesy light. Then it will pull out

2) Now take out the side panels of the console. They are connected by
two
plugs on each
side, pop them out and take out the screws behind them. Then they will
pull
out.
3) Take off the lower dash on the driver's side. Pop out the caps up
by the
steering
column and there are 10 mm bolts behind them, take those out as well as
the
ones at the
bottom. Also you have to disconnect the hood release mechanism. Lift
the
handle and
take out the two screws that you see, then slide the wire out of it's
lock,
then disconnect it
from release by pulling it up perpendicular to handle and sliding out.
4) Remove the glove box. There is a stopper on each side of the
interior
of the glove
box, it just looks like a black square. Pop those out and the gloxe
box
will fall to the
floor, revealing two screws, take those out and the glove box will come
out.
5) Take out the passenger side lower dash, one screw and one 10 mm
bolt at
the bottom,
take those out and it'll pop out.
6) Pop out the side vents that you see when you open the doors.
7) Use a screw driver and pop out the littlw panel where cruise
control and
power mirrors
are, then disconnect wires behind them and pull it out.
Take off the trim peices on the steering column. There are three
screws
that you can
get to from the bottom, then pull the adjustment handle down, then give
a
little tug and
the top and bottom will separate, then pull them out.
9) Take out the gauge cluster. There are two screws at the top of the
trim
ring, take those
out then tug at the bottom of the trim ring and it will snap out, then
pull
out the trim ring.
Then you will see 4 screws one at each corner of the cluster itself.
Take
those out and the
cluster will pull out.
10) Pop off the panel around the center vents with a screw driver,
then
disconnect the
harnesses behind the buttons, and disconnect the metal lever on the
right
side of the vents,
use a screw driver to pry it off.
11) Take out your stereo
12) Take out the 4 screws around the HVAC controls.
13) Take out the tweeters or the cover to where the tweeters would be.
14) Take out the passenger side airbag, if you look up at where the
glove
box would be,
under the dash there are 2 10 mm bolts, and 4 screws. Take out the
screws
that are on the
outsides, and leave the ones in the center. Then the 10 mm bolts, now
pull
the airbag out,
and follow the wires back and disconnect the harness.
15) Take out the steering wheel, remove the 4 10 mm bolts you can get
to
from behind
the steering wheel, then pull out the airbag and disconnect the
harnesses.
Remove the
center 17 mm nut, then use a steering wheel puller and remove the
wheel.

Now you are ready to take the dash out.
You must find all screws and nuts holding the dash in, and take them
out.
You will see one bolt on each side of where the radio would be, 4 bolts
and
2 screws
behind where the glove box would be. One bolt in each of the tweeter
holes,
2 bolts
where the cluster would be. Take them all out.
Now there is a large group of wires that run along the back of the
dash,
they include the
brightness knob, the instrument panel, and the glove box light. The
easiest solution is to
follow the wires along their path. They start at a harness above the
fuse
box, then I
believe there are 3 harnesses between the fise box and the brightness
knob,
disconenect
them all, then there it breaks down to two harnesses in the main jack
down
behind where
the radio would be. I think it was the two farthest to the left,
unplug
those and now the
dash should be ready to come out.
Get someone to help u and tug from both sides, it should pop out.

To reinstall the dash just use these notes, and do it in reverse and
use
your common sense.
I in now way am advertising for amatures to do this, the dash is in
intricate system and
should not be touched by anybody but the experienced. I take no
responsibility for
problems that you may incur or cause. Good luck, and let us all know
how it
comes out.

I'd seafoam the intake might be a dirty IAC ...