Latest FAQ's
Popular
Latest posts of: Bad Venge
  Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
January 09, 2009, 03:39:03 AM
Home Help Search
News: ASOG Store is Back!

Get your t-shirts, coffee mugs and more at our ASOG Store.

  Show Posts
Pages: 1 ... 90 91 [92] 93 94 ... 97
1366  Tech Forums / Audio / Visual / Re: Better way to insulate? on: January 18, 2006, 01:30:07 AM
Use TWO PART non expanding foam inside the reinforcements ... Also you can use the paint on vinyl bedliners for trucks ....
1367  General Category / Questions and problems / Re: Headlight question on: January 17, 2006, 01:12:50 AM
Right UNLESS you swap the 97+bumper in ...
1368  General Category / Questions and problems / Re: Can this really work??? on: January 17, 2006, 01:09:23 AM
One member on  asec has them ....Turtle I think is his handle he hacked them in..fit isn''t great...
1369  General Category / Questions and problems / Re: Headlight question on: January 16, 2006, 03:09:04 AM
Does your 95/96 lense have lines across the lens Huh If so the 97 WILL NOT fit ...the 97's are pictured above ...
1370  Tech Forums / Suspension and Brakes / Re: dropzone springs on: January 13, 2006, 09:13:31 PM
OK You want to lower your car , First off how do you drive it ....
Is the car a daily driver ?? or is it an all out show car??Is the car kitted??what are your local roads like??Snow and ice in the winter?? All of these will influence what type of lowering you might want ...
For a Daily driver I highly suggest a Drop spring , less maintenance/more reliable/Easier on the wallet
All out show car/kitted Think about coilovers or the Tiens for adjustability , ability to slam at shows
Bad local roads /big potholes/steep drives/roadkill galore think of a lesser drop or coilovers/tiens
Snow and ice in winter /think coilovers or tiens for ability to raise it back up for winter(will require alignment)

OK Now What do I need:
Lowering springs that WORK:
Eibach pro kit 1.8" drop settles to about a 2" drop
Suspension Techniques 1.3" drop settles to about 1.75" drop
Intrax 2" drop settles to around 3" drop or more
Dropzone 2" drop settles to 3" or more
OK these are from MY experience on a V6 ... I HIGHLY recommend either the Eibach Pro kit or the Suspension Tech springs... They provide the BEST stock like ride and are VERY drivable on less then perfect roads...
IMO The Intrax and Dropzone springs are VERY VERY low and VERY VERY bouncy
they seem to be remarketed Eclipse springs that have too low of a spring rate to handle the V6 ...

Coilovers that WORK:
Maxspeed/Dreamspeed coilovers
SkunkII Coilovers
These provide good spring rates/driveability and adjustability... They Require an experienced installer to give best results...Poor installation you will have noises bumps rattles ect that will never go away ... Properly installed they are descent but require modification of the struts that VOID warranty...
I DO NOT suggest getting no name ebay coilovers for the eclipse , With too low of spring rates they WILL collapse/They will ride poorly/You will end up replacing them ... Even some Named coilovers will not hold Up , I purchased a set of WeaponR's and they were junk after 3 months...

Tien all in one unit
These include coilovers AND Strut combo's built together ...
These have great spring rates, are made as a unit so you do not have to assemble them are very reliable and easy to replace the entire suspension...There are several Tien units from the basic to the EDFC adjustable

Struts:
Will I need Struts , YES any lowering will require struts... Can I use my stock struts?? Yes but they will blow and be worthless in no time...So WHY bother, I don't care if you are broke, save your money do it once and do it right !!!
KYB GR2's are very inexpensive CAN be used , But IMO they are not the RIGHT choice they are basically Upgraded stockers... Many have used them , but they fail pretty soon on Springs that are 2" or more, Same with coilovers

KYB AGX's Are more money/more adjustable hold up well to being lowered/ there are two part#'s one for 2" lower one for lower then 2" The lower set is better for coilover use as they have a shorter rod and prevent BOTTOMING...

Koni and Tokkiko both make excellent struts but are normally more expensive and harder to find...

Camber Kits:
After lowering will I need a Camber kit  YES you will definately need at least a REAR KIT, this can be done with longer bolts and washers, OR you can purchase a premade kit
Will I need a front kit  POSSIBLY I've dropped numerous cars for members/non members and here's what I have found, I've seen 1.3" springs require no kit to up to a 3 degree kit ... What I suggest is dropping the car/let springs settle for at least a week then take the car in for an alignment check, they can then get the car up on a rack and TELL you what kit you will need.... Do your homework on the alignment shop ask locals with local cars that are dropped where they got the alignments done... Try to use a shop thats used to lowered cars and able to get them up on the ramp...

OK how much will all this cost me
Plan on spending around $1000 on parts/alignment ... If you are not a do it yourselfer then add $300 for labor to install some shops will be more/less depending on your area.. Of course those prices are new parts , you might be able to get a deal on used parts but remember you can't be sure on used struts...

1371  Tech Forums / Suspension and Brakes / Re: dropzone springs on: January 13, 2006, 09:09:05 PM
DROPZONE springs suck on our cars...They are remarketed eclipse springs and don't support the V6 well AND they drop well over 3" and sit TOOO LOWWWW ... Yes you will need new struts ...The stockers will never hold up to that big of a drop ....
1372  Tech Forums / Audio / Visual / Re: ported or sealed? on: January 13, 2006, 02:46:17 AM
Only in YOUR world....I've been doing this since 81...and my answer is the correct one
1373  Tech Forums / Suspension and Brakes / Re: What brake pads are recommended and where can I get them??? on: January 12, 2006, 01:42:53 AM
I'm betting you got KVR performance rotors ...I like the KVR carbon fiber brake pads..
1374  General Category / Questions and problems / Re: Vibrating Noise (Very Strange) on: January 11, 2006, 10:36:11 PM
Or could be wheel bearing/hub assembly Huh
1375  General Category / Questions and problems / Re: Damn Door on: January 11, 2006, 02:18:08 AM
He's had my $$$ since July  Shocked Shocked Shocked So not a year yet  Angry Angry Angry
1376  General Category / Questions and problems / Re: how to manually "roll up" power windows? on: January 08, 2006, 02:14:48 AM
the mitsu eclipse 95/99 motor will work also ...might have that in stock
1377  General Category / Questions and problems / Re: Damn Door on: January 08, 2006, 12:21:57 AM
Sounds like the outer handle is about ready to break ....It's  probably bent or worn ..
1378  Tech Forums / Audio / Visual / Re: what size speakers? on: January 08, 2006, 12:15:00 AM
technically they are oversized 6 3/4" 6 1/2" will fit with minor redrilling ....
1379  General Category / Questions and problems / Re: brakes!! on: January 08, 2006, 12:08:59 AM
What's brake fade?
There's a couple kinds of brake fade. Brake fade is the inability of the car's
braking system to function properly due to overuse of the brakes.
Heat is the main culprit. There are many things to upgrade to prolong maximum
brake performance.

What performance brake pads do I buy?
Again, another heated issue (is this getting to be a cliche yet?) You need
to determine whether or not you car needs race brake pads or street
enthusiast ones.
Racing brake pads tend to leave a very stubborn dust on wheels and the body
paint. This requires constant cleaning lest it bonds permanently. Some race
pads are extremely noisy and may even destroy rotors in a few
days/weeks/months (depending on how you drive!)
Many people have had good success with Repco/Axxis MetalMaster pads. Other
brands to look into are Hawk, Performance Friction, and Porterfields.Currently I'm running KVR Carbon Fiber pads

Why should I use cross drilled/slotted rotors?
Theoretically, the extreme heat build up between the brake pad and the rotor
causes gases to be released from the brake pad. The pad is then riding on
this thin layer of gas and is not able to fully contact the rotor. You push
harder on the brakes but even more gases are released and so the braking
effectiveness is decreased. This is known as pad fade. A cross drilled or
slotted rotor provides a channel for the gases to evacuate.
Be careful using drilled rotors since they may cause uneven brake pade wear
and sometimes are prone to cracking (the drilling causes weakness in the
rotor)Although I've been running crossdrilled since98 
It should be mentioned by drilling the rotors, you will actually create less
surface area to dissipate heat. Your mileage may vary with cross drilled
rotors.
Other shops slot their rotors. This involves creating a groove (slot) into the
rotor. The idea behind this modification is to allow an edge on the rotor for
the brake pad to bite into. By slotting the rotors, you can ensure even brake
pad wear as well. Theoretically the slotting of rotors would increase surface
area, so you might be able to expect a cooler rotor.

IMHO, I upgrading your rotors may not be a worthwhile effort. I would only
do so if you have a severe brake fade problem. Most street enthusiast
driving does not punish the brakes hard enough.Although it does help prevent WARPING that we are famous for...

What kind of brake fluid should I use? What's wet and dry boiling temperature?
When brake fluid gets hot enough it boils. Like many other aspects of
automotive performance, high temperature brake fluid has its compromise.
In order to make a brake fluid withstand high temperatures, it tends to
absorb water very quickly. Thus all brake fluids are rated at two
temperatures, wet (absorbed water) and dry (no water).

WARNING! High performance brake fluids tend to absorb water quickly,
and some need to be bled before each race. Bleeding your brake fluid is
important to your master cylinder life. On aged hondas, its common for the
Master Cylinder to go bad gradually. If you notice that the brakes are mushy
and start to fade in traffic or on hot days, especially if it you've just bled
the brakes, then you've got a bad Master Cylinder. Your local big parts store
should have rebuilt master cylinders with a life time warranty for not too
much money. Fix it fast or you may regret it. We don't want to have to tell
your next-of-kin that we told you so.

Again a lot of people have their favorites of fluid to purchase. Motul, Castrol
Heavy Duty, Wilwood 570, Lucas Girling DOT 5.1, and Super ATE.

Do aftermarket brake lines improve stopping distances?
In a word no. Aftermarket lines improve the feel of the brakes; offering
a firmer, more positive feeling of control to the driver. A low buck tuner
way to make the brake lines firmer feeling is to use zip ties around the
softer OEM brake lines.


Who makes brake lines? And is DOT approval necessary?
"When Z.Speed looked into getting DOT approval for their stainless lines, they
found that there is no certification process. There is a spec for brake lines
however. Z.Speed's lines meets or exceeds the DOT standard.
When SMC first started selling lines (early 96), they were selling Goodridge
lines (which claimes to be the 1st DOT approved lines). I'm not sure if SMC sell
their own lines now.
Stillen also recently started to market Goodridge lines."

How are brake fluids classified?
DOT3= 284
DOT4= 311
DOT5= 356

But these are MINIMUM standards. Thus Adam is correct in implying that
Motul (Motul Racing Brake Fluid 600) actually meets the boiling point
standards for DOT5 since it has a dry boiling point of 585?F (307?C), wet
421?F (216?C). And they COULD call themselves DOT 5.1 but not DOT 5, which
is what they call SBBF, or silicone-base brake fluid. If you read the
Federal regulations closely (TITLE 49, PART 571, Subpart B, Sec. 571.116,
Standard No. 116; Motor vehicle brake fluids.), it says that DOT5 must be
labeled as either SBBF or as DOT 5.1 non-SBBF. There are other
requirements for DOT5, too (such as color - purple). I suspect Motul (and
most other manufacturers) find it easier and less confusing to call
themselves DOT4 than to refer to their fluid as DOT 5.1 and take the risk
(proven here) that people will THINK they are the silicone-based DOT5
fluid.

So as it turns out Adam was right that there are boiling point standards
for each DOT grade of fluid. Live and learn. I found this out about it at
the DOT website at http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/cfr-table-search.html
where I found the reg noted above.


1380  General Category / Questions and problems / Re: how to manually "roll up" power windows? on: January 07, 2006, 11:51:33 PM
I'd check the  motor Huh I'm assuming neither switch works driver/passenger side ...
Pages: 1 ... 90 91 [92] 93 94 ... 97


Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP ASOG Forums | Powered by SMF 1.1 RC1.
© 2001-2005, Lewis Media. All Rights Reserved.
Joomla Bridge by JoomlaHacks.com
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Content © 2004 ASOG.net
Design by Joomlactive