I'm not quite ready for the big reveal, but hear is a teaser of what's to come in the next couple days.

1. New windshield installed to replace the one damaged in the fire. All fire damage is history now.
2. Revisited the steering with new center shaft design and all new tie rod ends.
3. Turn signals and brake lights working again (through out the ABS/Flasher unit by mistake).
4. Dual exhaust all the way out the back. I'm proud of this because I did it all myself with a cheap $69 tubing bender I bought for the project.
5. I am currently working on installing a set of six Sport-Comp AutoMeter gauges.  Wait until you see pictures of these, they look great.

I did a quick estimate on how much I've spent on the project so far and came up with approximately $5,000.00 including the cost of the car.  Double what I originally wanted to spend, but I've splurged on a number of unnecessary but gratifying glitter.

April 22 is Import night at Great Lakes Dragway which I think would be a cool night to run the Avenger.  Lots of ricers to shutdown.  I'm sure a number of them will walk around me since my car is likely to only get high 15's or low 16's with the crappy old 305 that's in it.  but that is better then the 17's a factory Avenger gets.

As soon as I finish installing the gauges I'll take lots of pictures and post them.

Yeah, I've been trying to wrap things up before my next post, but I'll throw a teaser out there to wet  your appetite and pull everyone in for the big reveal in a couple days.

http://asog.net/component/option,com_smf/Itemid,30/topic,1355.0

Problem resolved! 

I went to the junkyard and the first car I looked at had the flasher unit right were everyone has been saying.  It was also just like the new one I bought with three wires.  I knew I didn't have a plug with three wires so I took a look at another car and BINGO!  In the same location was a module about the size of a deck of cards labeled ABS with a 10 pin plug.  Cars with ABS brakes must have this module integrated with the flasher unit.  $25 later and everthing is working again.

I'm not finding it.  I'm so frustrated now.  I actually bought a replacement just to see what it looks like, but I don't see anything like it.  There isn't any box with a three prong plug or even a wire (I have some extra wires because the ac and duct work are removed) with a three prong female end.

Any other suggestions?

Things are going well with it.  I'll be updating the thread soon.  New windshield just was put in yesterday to replace the one busted by the fire.  Full dual exhaust out the back which I am proud of because I did it all myself with a cheap ($69) tubing bender I bought.  And I'm now working on installing my new AutoMeter gauges and fixing the lights.  When I get that done I'll take pictures and do a big write up.

Thanks for your help!

No brake lights or turn signals/hazards.  Center brake light works.

Is it a silver box? 

I think I actaully found the problem though.  When I looked up higher where you described I found what I think might be some kind of an inline resister.  It says 1W 820. I checked it with a test light.  When I press the brake down I get power on one side, but not the other.

Cool, that was my next guess 

Does anyone know the location of the flasher unit.  I am trying to resolve a problem with my brake lights and turn signals not working and believe it is a fried flasher unit.

I'll start by stating that I have nothing against using a small block Mopar. If there was one feature of the motor that made it more compatible with the make of the car I probably would have gone that way, but since a front wheel drive car seems to having nothing in common with an older V8...
 
There are three primary reasons I elected to go with a small block Chevy instead. The first two reasons may be some what subjective so please don't start a long chain of debating them.  First, I find that small block Chevy engines are more easily obtainable. The parts are also more widely available and generally cheaper.  Trying to keep this project as cheap as I could I went for the motor that can be bought for a dime a dozen. Now lastly, most important, and irrefutably is the size.  A small block Chevy is smaller in width, height, and depth.  But don't take my word for it, here is a link comparing popular motors http://carnut.com/specs/fengdim.html. I have the short water pump (SW) which makes the motor 2 1/2 inches shorter then the 360.  Now that doesn't sound like all that much, but if you take away that 2 1/2 inches from the 3 inches I have between the water pump and the radiator I'm left with 1/2 inch.  There goes my space for the electric fan.
 
Here is an example of cheap parts. At one point in the build I decided that the condition of an old TH350 trans I had laying around was too uncertain for me to put in only to find out later that it would need to be pulled out and replaced (turns out after giving it to my friend it was in perfect running condition). So with my friends help we found a recently rebuilt TH350, bead basted to an ultra clean finish, a manual valve body and new 2800 stall converter all for only $250 and 25 miles from my house.  Now I realize you can find deals with any make motor, but examples of availability are around every corner.  I'm going to need gauges for the car one of which will be a speedo.  Many speedometers sold by summit already include sending units for TH350, anything else would require special orders. New cam and lifters for $60,...etc.
 
Again, let's not get into a big debate about what is better or cheaper or what ever, it really was just in my comfort zone for the project and we can leave it at that.
 
Here is a picture of the transmission, however, it doesn't really do justice to the bead blasted finish.
 

Yeah, the motor that is in it now is a relatively stock 305 out of a Monte Carlo.  I'm thinking of getting a crate 350 with around 300 hp.

That CF hood looks perfect.  Looks like I'll be adding that to my phase II plans.  Thanks!  Phase II will begin after the kinks are worked out; at that time I'll begin detailing the car with little improvements (and some not so little: hood, new motor, body kit... )

It was originally a 2.0L 5speed.  The motor was locked up so I gave it away in the first week of the project to the guy I bought the 305 sbc from.

Here are those pictures of the hole cut in the hood and the tape on hoodscoop.  I don't really like the hoodscoop, but it will have to do until I can find a carbon fiber hood that gives me the clearence I need.  The scoop was only $25 including shipping off eBay.

If you are talking about a big block 427 then I think the biggest problem with that would be the extra 150 pounds of weight and over 3 inches in additional length. 

The weight of a small block (305, 350 etc) seems to be working out well with my existing suspension, but an extra 150 pounds might require a completely new solution for suspension.

As it is with my small block I had to go with a short neck water pump and all the brackets and pulleys that go along with that form factor to give me enough room for a 3 inch aluminum radiator and electric fan.  With the added length of a big block I think you would have to completely remove the firewall and move the motor to the rear for enough room for cooling. I had to remove a portion of my firewall to fit the transmission, but I didn't have to deal with running new brake lines and wiring which you would with a complete removal.

After I run the car at the drag strip to get a baseline for the work I have done I will likely build a 300 hp 350 sbc to drop in place of the 305.  Since both motors are identical other then cubic inches it will drop right in.  You can get crazy horse power out of a small block so I personally wouldn't go to the trouble of trying to shoe horn a big block into the car unless I was building it as a dedicated dragster.