My 97 Avenger's is on the Passenger side back by the rear tire.

And how does the cost of that compare?

Honestly, I'm not sure.  It would depend on how much more they are.  I would hate to take the engine apart and not put something better in if they were only $100 more than OEM.  Foremost I need it to be running and reliable. 

I've been planning for some time now to rebuild the engine in my 97 Avenger.  With summer comming up the time is quickly approaching and I need to start saving cash.  The engine has 190,000 miles on it so you can imagine the problems that need to be fixed. 

I was wondering if you guys could give me a ballpark on the cost for such a job.  I would plan to do the mechanical stuff myself, while taking the heads in to have them rebuilt so all I would really be looking at are parts. 

Thanks!

I took the car in last week.  They were not able to find the exact problem, but ran some stuff through the top end of the engine to clean out any carbon build up.  I got the car back on Friday and the problem seems to be gone.  The car runs much better, and there is no hesitation when taking off. 

Merry Christmas!

Ya, it is noticable.  Some times more than others, but definitly there.  I have an appointment to take it in tomorrow.

I have a multiple cylinder misfire on 1 and 6.  I started a topic about it here under V6 Tech and have replaced some parts, but nothing so far has fixed it.

I need someone to work on my Avenger.  I can't figure the problem out, and my usual mechanic can't work on it because it's Mitsubishi.  I'm looking for a recommendation for an honest, reliable mechanic in the Puget Sound area.  I would like to stay around Bellevue, Redmond, Kirkland, Woodinville, Bothell, and Monroe.

Thanks for any suggestions.

I haven't done a compression test yet, simply because I don't have the tester.  However, I ran some tests on the MAP sensor.  I have created a new topic for this here...
http://asog.net/component/option,com_smf/Itemid,30/topic,180.0

This is in regards to my misfire code found here http://asog.net/component/option,com_smf/Itemid,30/topic,40.0I ran some tests on the MAP sensor.  I followed the instructions in my Chilton book to do them.  The instructions are as follows:

1. check connector, etc.

2. Test the MAP sensor output voltage at the sensor connector between terminals 1 and 3.

3. With the ignition switch ON and the engine not running, the output voltage should be 4-5 volts.  The voltage should fall to 1.5 - 2.1 volts with a hot, neutral idle speed condition.  If OK, go to step 4 or 5.  If not OK, go to Step 6 or 7.
when I tested the connector, my voltmeter read zero.  When I droped it down to the lower range (2V), my output is about .003

6. Test the MAP sensor ground circuit at the sensor connector terminal 1 and PCM terminal 43.  If OK, go to Step 8.  If not OK, repair as necessary.
this test comes out fine

7. This test is for a 95 only.

8. Test the MAP sensor supply voltage between the sensor connector terminals 2 and 1 with the ignition key in the ON position.  The voltage should be about 4.5 - 5.5 volts.
This tests out fine

9. There should also be 4.5 - 5.5 volts at terminal 61 of the PCM.
This tests out fine

10. This test is for a 95 only.

11.  If not, repair or replace the wire harness as required.

So as far as I can tell, the only problem that I found was a problem way up at step 3.  So, does this sound like a wiring problem?  If so, how can this be fixed?  Do I need to replace the entire harness?

Ya, the plugs and wires was the first think I tried.  The thing is, I know my car is in deed misfiring sometimes because it's running really crappy.  Where did you find the ECU and how much was it?

I have now replaced the IAT Sensor, the cap, and the rotor.  Still having the same problem.  Any other suggestions?

I had this code a couple of months ago.  I found that the solution was as simple as reattaching a small rubber hose which had come disconnected from the EGR valve in the back of the engine.  I think that there are two hoses that go into the valve itself coming from the EGR solenoid, and two that go from the solenoid into the intake plenum.  Just make a quick check to ensure that they are connected.  This may not be your problem but hey, it's quick, and it's free.

Naw, I'm here too.

Wed PM
I thought about this today on my drive home tonight.  I rarely, if ever, notice (feel) the misfire.  I can drive down the highway and the car runs great.  Idling at a light the car is running smooth, not shaky like I would assume it would feel.  If I start it, open the hood, and listen REALLY close, I never hear a cylinder miss, however, the codes that it throws are misfires on cylinder 1 and 6, two cylinders that are consecutive in the firing order.  It just seems like this is something that I should notice if there is a problem. 

*Edit*
Thurs AM
When I went out to start my car again this morning, it started fine.  When I came out two minutes later and got in, the MIL light was flashing and the car was running really rough.  I turned it off, went inside and looked in my book about the flashing.  I wen't back out, started it again (it started without a problem) and the MIL no longer flashed.  It was just on.  I needed to get to work, so I started down the road.  Shortly after I left it started running just fine.  Is there something that could be faulty yet only cause a misfire when it's cold in the morning?  What does it mean when the MIL flashes.  I've heard of it, but never seen it before and I couldn't find anything in my book about it.