the universal ones will work fine. i found some similar at ace hardware of all places, otherwise try a local auto body shop. worst case you can go to http://www.autobodysupplies.com/AutoBodyHardwareIndex.htm etc and get some similar clips. the plastic fasteners strip out like mad anyways, so i'd go for the easier option.

i'm still holding my breath for Alain95i4's response.. i'm sure he can enlighten us all if he so chooses.

he is right, sort of..at room temperature n2o is not flammable. it's only under the high temps and pressures present in the combustion chamber that the nitrous oxide breaks down to it's nitrogen and oxygen components. the oxygen will then definitely burn. the phase change from liquid to gas in the bottle and it's expansion as it exits the solenoids helps to cool the combustion charge somewhat. it's pretty cool in a nerd sorta way.

that being said i'm sure if someone sticks a torch in front a nitrous bottle it will probably burn. but at room temps it is nowhere near as volatile as gasoline.

i was doing a little digging on second order vibrations and stumbled on this. it's a good read for anyone interested, just disregard a few grammatical errors by the author.

http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/smooth1.htm

local scrap yard..i picked one up in good shape for $60
http://www.car-part.com/

it's obd1 with a 17 gallon tank. actual spec is 16.9
possibly an oxygen sensor, they are a common problem. pull a plug or two and see what they look like.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-1995-Chrysler-Sebring-Avenger-Service-Manuals_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34217QQihZ007QQitemZ170163354756QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

diagrams depend on whether or not you have keyless entry. for locks and windows.

you need a 95 factory service manual, the electrical book has what you need. i can post pics of the 96 pages but not sure what exactly changed between then.

werd, congrats dude..

i had a flowmaster 40 with an aftermarket downpipe and it sounded nice and throaty.  i left the resonator in. sounded great, just eventually rusted out on me.
i'd say go for it.

can you just strip the abs sprocket off and use the hub minus the sprocket? i'm just don't understand where the clearance issue is.. i'm not real familiar with it.
a scrap yard is guaranteed to have what you need..may involve some footwork though.

anthony, that is a typical price for a rebuild. granted you can get a used much cheaper, paying extra for a rebuild is often worth it depending on what is done. $800 with a warranty is tough to beat though, but if it's a stock replacement it can be worth spending more for  a quality rebuild on upgraded internals. the tough part is finding a good shop that does really knows these tranmissions.

sell it and be done with it. there are alot of these on the market now so don't expect too much. if i only had garage space i'd snag this. where are you?

besides that, there is no American Society of Engineers 

well i got a 97 ecu from a scrap yard, couldn't find a 96 close enough to me. it hasn't run enough to spit out any cels. i have my egr blocked off so that one is guaranteed. only thing i don't like is the thing revs up to 2600rpm on startup and settles to a normal idle. a lot higher than i had earlier, but we'll see if it settles down. just kinda makes me cringe with the little oil pressure on startup.

i'm sure some of you know this, but just an fyi for swapping ecu's with the v6. 95 can only be swapped with 95. 96 and 97 are interchangeable. 98+ can only be swapped with 98 and up.