I have seen their site and called their number but there is no answer, ever. Does anyone outhere know if they still exist and if they still work on the venge. I got a blown trans and I am not home enough to do it myself, nor do I have the space to do it myself. I have seen on there site that they offer a rebuilt, performance version of the A604 and they do installs but I can't get an address or get anyone on the phone. Can anyone help?
Here's what you do, go to Barnes and Noble and pick up a copy of Automotive Math, figure out the cfm rating for your engine. Each engine has its own because all an engine really is, is a vacuum. Then figure out what you really want to do with your car. Choose to build an engine for boost(nitro, turbo, or supercharger). Then start with your cam rpm rating, it needs to be for the purpose of what you eventually want in the end. Example-high end or low end, street or strip, both, or rally or what ever. Then get a torque converter or bulletproof trans with t/c. Then start to build. However the best gain of HP for the money is going to be N2O, but that is only short term because you have to pay to play(refill the bottle). In the long run it would be best to slowly buy everything to make a complete performance engine and then put it all together at once, if you can do it yourself then good, if not=more money. Like I said you have to figure out what you want, then build to suit. Make sure you have the spark, the supply of fuel and the supply and exit of air. That is it broken down.
The problem with intakes is this, they don't give you a gain in HP unless you also do a full exhaust, unless you only have one restrictive component in your exhaust and you remove it. But most of the time you need to do a whole performance exhaust from headers to tailpipe. I will probably sound better with an intake but in all actuallity you lose HP. I've had the chance to try these types of mods on cars then to put them on the dyno and see what happens. Then if you do get a lot of air coming in and a lot of air going out, your fuel system can't compensate at higher rpms and then runs lean and starts to detonate and destroy your engine.
The timing needs to be tuned also, which on our cars is controlled by the computer, so get your computer tuned, or the cheaper easier, but kinda wrong way to do it is to get an adjustable cam gear. Actually it isn't really wrong but it isn't really the best way either.
The DLL (drive line loss) in a front wheel drive vehicle is about 10-15%, rear wheel drive is about 15-25% depending on the set up. So your brake hp minus the %of loss is what your car probably puts out, also taking into account the mileage.
If anyone sees anything wrong here let me know, if not then I guess I still remember everything pretty well. Hope this helps. Any questions also let me know.
If everything is done right and complete and no short cuts, then you could see between 15sec and 11 sec, depending on mods, possibly 10sec in the Qtr Mile.
Is the only difference between the 2.5 liter and the 3.0 liter engines the heads or what? I have heard rumors that all I would have to do is get a set of 3.0 heads, send them to be built then throw them on my venge and get moving. Basically my question is "Are the blocks the same?"
When you replace the water pump, be sure to use a water soluble lubricant on the o-ring for the crossover water tube that goes into the back of the pump. Lube the o-ring then slide it on the water pipe, and leave it really close to the edge, then press the water pump on over it till it is flush and then bolt it down. I didn't do it this way and I cut the gasket and had to do the job all over again the next day, after finding just the right sized o-ring, cause I couldnt get a new one from the part store. And for the timing belt, make sure to mark the belt and pullies with white out or something that wont come off easy, then transfer the markings to the new belt being sure not to skip any teeth when marking, and see if you can find and barrow a dual cam sprocket locking device, it will keep the cams from spinning on you and throwing everything off. I hated doing that job in my driveway with less than adequate tools.(twice)
I would try to flush and filter it, make sure to use the proper fluid, don't put a pan gasket on it, just use RTV. See if that helps. Also there are many places it can leak like a drunk man. One is the solenoid shift pack, one is the cooler lines at the trans or the radiator, and the third is the final drive seals/cv axle shaft seals, they seal the axles as they exit the differential.
if anyone sees a problem here you can let me know, or if you can add anything please do so. Good luck
I went through a lot with my trans and now it is in pretty good shape. 160K miles and still running without a rebuild.
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