I'm having a problem though; getting the bolts out of the calipers. Maybe I'm just a giant pussy, but I've tried everything to get them loose to no avail. Is there anything I'm missing, or any trick to this? I've spent an hour beating the hell out of my open end and socket wrenches with a iron mallet an still nothing.
Since its facing away from me, I'm assuming it loosens to the right (towards the back of the car). I've tried both directions, but it would help to know positively which way I'm going with this.
If anyone could offer any suggestions it would be deeply appreciated. Thank you.
My mechanic friend said some cars require a special tool for the rear pistons. Would a 4 cyl 96' Avenger with rear discs happen to fall under this category? I clearly have no idea what I'm talking about, but I figured I'd check here before I go to the parts store.
here is a link to the topic where I originally explain my problem. Its in the general questions and problems forum, page 2.
Basically no new solution has been offered, other than get a new pcm. I dont really care if it works or not, I'm really just spending the $200 required to obtain an emission waiver. But several people I've talked to said this year (96) and engine (420a) combination have this problem a lot. I figured theres a better chance of it working if I order a 97 or 98 pcm. But I want to make sure my car will run okay with one of these years.
Is there any reason a 97 or 98 pcm wouldn't work in a 96 avenger? The problem I am having is supposedly rampant in 96 models, so I was hoping a computer from a later model might increase the chances of fixing it.
Yeah, sorry I didn't post sooner, I kinda forgot. He ended up taking it to a dealership and having the flash upgrade done on his PCM. It seemed to solve most of his problems and then he replaced his injectors and that took care of the rest. I would suggest taking it to a dealer and having them reflash it. If one dealer gives you hassle about the aftermarket stuff, call a different one. The First dealership Chris went to tried to give him a load of crap, the second one took good care of him. Hope this helps.
You got the new PCM flashed? In your first post, you guys said you had ordered a new one. I'm sort of confused now. The whole thing I was having trouble with was the dealership saying my current one would not accept a flash.
I'm assuming I need to order a new one either way, so would any 420a PCM work or not? (ie eclipse)
We are having a similar problem in the 4 cyl catagory. We ordered a new PCM and it should be here soon. We will let you know asap as to the results. I also might find a different Dodge dealer than the one you are going to if that is an option for you. I know I have had one dealership feed me a bunch of crap and I drive across town and another dealership takes really good care of me.
We will keep you updated thought.
Any update?
Also, would any 420a ECM work, ie eclipse? Or do I need one specific to the Avenger 420a?
Ok this is the third time I am trying to put this up. The board keeps saying I already posted my message and its starting to frustrate me.
PCM = Powertrain Control Module ECM = Engine Control Module ECU = Engine Control Unit NASA = National Aeronautical and Space Administration
With the exception of NASA they are all the same thing. If you have the 4 cyl 5 spd it should be right in front of the drivers side inner fender. Before you go replacing it I would take it to the dealership and see if it may just need to be reflashed with updated software. There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) stating that the problems you are experiencing are due to a software glitch and the PCM just needs to be reflashed (reprogrammed) We are actually going to try that with Chris's computer before we get him a new one just to make sure. The dealership he took it to claims that they did it but they didn't document it in any paperword and did not put the stickers on the PCM stating that they had updated it like they were supposed to so we are calling BS on them.
Hope this helps a bit.
Okay, thanks for the clarification. I have already tried to have it reflashed and the dealership told me it would not accept a reflash. This seems a little bizarre in its own right, as long as its working at all it seems like it should be able to be reprogrammed...
I take it then, my next step should be to obtain a junkyard PCM, install it, and then have a dealership try to reflash it (again) ?
What are the odds a junkyard PCM would also not take the reflash, simply because its old and broken too? It seems like the only way to be sure this isn't the problem is to obtain a "new" one from the the dealership (I take it they are refurburbished).
the terms tend to get interchanged sometimes. the pcm is the powertrain control module . controls the transmission, sometimes called the tcm. you need the ecu. that controls the engine. sometimes called the ecm.
Even if they told me specifically I need a new PCM?
I know where the ECU is, I'm just confused as to whether or not the PCM is part of it, or a separate module.
Thanks, I just got a quote from the dealership for a new PCM... $349. As a broke college student I can only spend that money if theres a very good chance it will fix my problem. Please let me know the results - it is greatly appreciated!
Hi, new to the boards here. I have been trying to no avail over the last year trying to get my car to pass inspection. Here is some general background info: It is a 96 2.0 5 spd Avenger with 138k miles. The engine was rebuilt at about 125k when the timing belt snapped, but I'm not sure if thats relevent.. More importantly, I bought the car about four years ago. It had 109k miles and a few mods which I left on. These include: short ram intake, and apparently homemade headers and catback exhaust. The quality of the exhaust is actually very good, and the headers have held up well, but don't look especially well designed.. Anyway now to the meat of my problem:
When I first got the car it passed inspection fine. This was probably in late 02 or early 03. Last year I tried to get it inspected at Jiffy Lube and they told me I was getting a "No Response" from too many systems to pass inspection. Since then I have been to a half dozen garages seeking advice. I've driven the standard "50-100" miles (it varies from mechanic to mechanic) more times than I can remember after the ECU was supposedly reset. This never worked. A diagnostic revealed a Service Bulletin, so I took it to my local dealership. I've always gotten a shady vibe from them, and other mechanics I know have told me horror stories about their reputation for hustling people but I don't really know enough to pass judgment. They told me they flashed my ECU..more driving.. a month or two later it still wouldnt pass. I called them yesterday, and now they look at the record and tell me the flash didn't take. They read the Service Bulletin to me and it was exactly the problem at hand: some kind of error would cause a "No Response" of OBDII systems. But they told me it won't take and I probably need a new Powertrain Control Module. I probably would have been happy to just have them replace this, but then they tell me first they'd need to return everything to stock. I pretty much hung up on them at this point, not because I particularly love my exhaust, but I know they would charge me a couple grand to do it. I asked why it passed when I first got it, and they said it only got the exhaust probe, and the OBD requirement is recent.
Does anyone have any insight or experience to this problem? Is there a particular aftermarket part that would cause this problem? How much would a new PCM cost, and what are the odds that would solve the issue? I really get the feeling they are trying to screw me about the extra stuff on my car. I don't understand why, if its the PCM that won't take the flash/service bulletin, it makes any difference what other parts are on my car. This has really been driving me crazy for over a year. If it doesn't pass inspection by April my tags will be revoked.
This has been happening to me too lately. It only happens when I put the car in neutral while still moving or right when I come to a complete stop. If I leave the clutch down it doesn't happen. About half the time it will cut off entirely unless I rev it up to about 2000. The rest of the time the tach needle just drops like normal, but keeps going past 1100 all the way down to about 400, sputters, and jerks back up to 1100, usually making my belts squeal as well. Its becoming very annoying at stop lights, everyone thinks I'm trying to race them, when I'm just trying to keep my car running.
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The whole thing I was having trouble with was the dealership saying my current one would not accept a flash. 
