Well guys , I recently changed the transmission filter and fluid (after a bit of procrastination) and its still stuck on 2nd. My next guess would be something electrical , I hope. By the way, the car rarely shifts properly all the way up to 4th but 90% of the time it gets stuck on 2nd.
Jw mentioned something about input and output sensors, and a friend of mine from work mentioned that it could be a shift sensor. My question is are they easy to repair and how. Thanks once again.
Thanks a lot for the help . Im just hoping its some electrical problem and not something more pricy.
Shiano, the fluid I added recently was ATF 4 , but honestly I dont remember when was the last time I changed the filter, so that should be my next step. Its a 4 cylinder by the way. Thanks Ill update the forum once I get the problem fixed.
I have a 95 avenger with 125k miles on it, 5 spd auto transmission. My problem first started when I was slowing down the highway , below 40mph the car would abruptly (and I mean abruptly caused it scared the excrement out of me) shift into 2nd gear and would stay in 2nd until I restarted the engine on a red light. Then it would shift normally again , but I then would encounter the same problem.This would happen regardless if I applied the brake or not, below 40 it would downshift. But Now, all the car does is shift from 1st to 2nd and stay there, I havent been able to get above 2nd ,and honestly its kind of embarassing cause I drive my car on the highway at 45 mph an hour on 2nd doing 4000rpm. If anyone has any idea of what it can be, please let me know. Thanks in advance.
In the display panel I dont have any 'check engine' lights so that kind of rules out any sensors, Ive also been told that it could be a vacuum leak or the harmonic balancer. 1st of all how would I go about checking for vacuum leaks?? Any more suggestions are helpful.
My 95 avenger has about 120k miles on it, and for a while now it has been vibrating at idle. My idle RPM is normal , around the 650-750rpm range. Ive changed sparkplugs, air filter, fuel filter, EGR valve, PCV valve, Engine Mount, IAC motor,Ignition Coil block and wires, Injector and combustion chamber cleaning, but the vibration still continues. My oil pressure has also been way below normal at idle, but when I go above a certain speed it goes up. The oil pump is still good and Ive changed the oil recently. What else could be wrong with this frustrating problem??
I had a really similar problem to yours, one day I just started hearing a belt rubbing against something , it would only sound between idle and around 1000 rpm, after that it didnt sound anymore. The next morning I was driving my car to the mechanic when the engine quit, turns out the timing belt broke , luckily I didnt bend any valves but it did cost me around $500 to get a new belt , time the engine and adjust the tensioner pulley. You might need to replace the belt since its been rubbing already , if not you probably just have to adjust the tensioner. Hope this helped a bit.
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Today I opened the hood to do some basic maintenance on my 95 Avenger and realized that when the engine is on, the right radiator fan (from the drivers point of view) isnt turning. To be honest I dont even know how long thats been like that but Im hoping its nothing too expensive to fix. Any advice is greatly considered. Thanks
I recently installed a CAI for my 95 Avenger and it runs better than what it used to , but recently a friend of mine said that itd be better if I installed a performance chip so it can compensate for the extra air that is being sucked into the engine. Is this statement true, if so , where can I find a decent chip to install in my car?
Im also planning in installing a cat back exhaust just that Im having a hard time deciding what brand to choose. Bosal or Pacesetter??
Depends on you. If you have pretty decent mechanical skills, it's not hard at all.
0. Drain oil and coolant 1. Pull the plugs and wires out. 2. Disconnect all the harnesses attached around the head 3. If you're reusing the timing belt make marks on the cams and on the belt 4. Pull off the valve cover 5. Remove the camshafts 6. Remove the head bolts in sequence 7. Take off old gasket, and clean the area removing all grime and old gasket material.
To install just do it in reverse order. Good luck with timing, if you're unsure of the timing have it towed to a shop. The towing and timing will still cost less than having them do it all. As for time it takes me for the install its less than a half hour to do it.
I posted that from memory so if I missed something someone correct me. Also Serg, don't force anything, if something seems stuck hop on here and ask for help.
I just started on this today and up to this point I have the plugs, wires, and valve cover removed. Ive also drained the coolant and oil. However,Im becoming hesitant about going on with the repair because in order to remove the camshaft I have to remove the timing belt, right? And from what Im seeing its kinda tough to remove it.Another thing that has me worried is marking the camshaft and timing belt, how exactly is that done? Any help is appreciated, I just hope I can get this done before going back to work on Monday.
Actually my spark plugs were fine, they showed normal wear and they didnt seem to show anything abnormal going on. Im going to try to chane the IAC and see if that fixes the problem.
I have a 95 Avenger and it has an oil leak coming from the head gasket. My question being is : If I wanted to replace the gasket myself, how complex would the repair be and more or less how much time would it take to do that. Thanks in advance.
Hopefully the IAC will take care of the problem. I am interested in buying it from you, you can contact me at srodriguez54@hotmail.com with more information.
Does the oil pressure fall below minimum? If not, it should be normal operation. Make sure youre using the right grade of oil. If it falls below minimum it could be the oil pressure relief valve.
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