well i looked into freight prices and even with my discount their minimums are too high for a cheap piece this large, BUT


Greyhound is the way to go. Looks to be around 60-65 dollars to ship the hood to most places. Maybe less if you are closer or a bit more if you are the farthest possible point. So there is the info for everyone else.

Lets make a deal... like 125shipped or something. I really dont need this hood and its taking up room in the garage.

I highly doubt you will be able to see much in a picture, but if you are serious ill take a picture of it.

its the same hood that is on it in this picture.. same condition so its not a POS

Used AC Compressor that was taken off before 50k miles. Bearings clutch and everything in great working condition. AC was hardly used because I lived in CA at the time


$65 dollars plus shipping

1998 Sebring Trunk - Black

Trunk has spoiler and is in great condition. Does not come with center/middle panel which has the emblem. You can buy this trunk and one of the carbon fiber panels from someone who bought a cf trunk and has an avenger that cant use that panel and it would look awesome.

$100 plus shipping or pickup. I cant find them for even close to that on Car-part

1998 Sebring Hood - Black

no dents or dings.. Has minor surface scratches bird excrement stains..everything shows up on black, but nothing horrible. Probably could be wetsanded or buffed out. Great hood for project or repaint or personally just to put on a black car. I had it on mine so it cant be that bad..lol

$85dollars plus shipping or pickup is fine

Hey Tig..... I havent been around much either.... we need to meet up soon when you have some free time.

2.5 headers fit on a 3.0 block... but 3.0 headers will not fit on your avenger sebring. Yes they bolt up... but they will not clear everything in your engine bay nor match up with your downpipe

he doesnt make them.... he found a company willing to make them for a pretty penny.

we dont suffer from overheating in anyway. especially if you have good fans.

yea i can supply with a complete kit, but it would be well over 3k and you really need a forged motor to run boost on these engines for a pro longed period or at all really.

you need the supercharger, injectors, fuel control(mechanical and electrical), timing control, different ac compressor, crank pulley, tensioner, belts, and other things like meth injection if you plan on running something more than 5psi. That is not a complete list but you get the point... its not just a few things and they cost more than 3k unless you buy everything used(and then you dont know where to start looking for a problem)

Really unless you have 5k... you cant do it right. Which is pretty much everything new and a forged piston shortblock...

plan on spending 5k-5.5k

The supercharger alone(just shaft and blower) is 2500.

if you knew half of something about tuning you would understand...


closed loop.... the ecu is trying to hold it at stoich. it does it for you as long as you arent too far off(like boost or anything where you would change the displacement or injector size. so you dont tune closed loop.... you are tuning the fuel trims. Thats what you need to be checking when making changes for closed loop operation

open loop. the car runs off of a preset tune for the most part. The ecu is not paying attention to the o2 sensors for feedback. So you can make changes here and it wont be trying to compensate for your changes.

There is no magical number for a/f. There is parameters you try and stay within, but you will always run into people that run richer or leaner than you for their own personal reasons.

14.7:1 is stoich...

when full throttle you will want to stay under 12.5:1 if you have a a/s stock motor...


boosted its gonna drop to around 11:1

optimal is 14.7:1 which is stoich.


its not like you set the car for 14.7 or another number and go...

it varies per load(which can include throttle percentage which is relevant to load).. and rpm as to what a/f ratio you will want.


like anytime you are in closed loop.. the computer should be aiming to keep you at 14.7:1. But as with anytime you are in closed loop the ecu is constantly compensating give you an average of 14.7:1. That is why your o2 sensor signal oscilates.

open loop tuning which is where the wideband really makes itself worth something... is when you are 80%+ on the throttle... basically full throttle. On a N/A engine you are going to want to be somewhere between 12-13:1 during this time. But its not a constant 12:1.. it may start leaner at lower rpms... and go richer at high rpms. Those are things for you to decide when you are tuning.

I could ramble on and on about that question because it is just soo generic. There are so many things that go into deciding where to set your A/f and they can be results of detonation, temp, weather...

i would take it...

but its too expensive to ship... or drive to get.

the computer uses the tps vs MAP(there is no MAF Steve Monroe)

without a TPS.. the computer wouldnt know how much you were pressing the throttle. It would have a very hard time calculating load. Which also determines timing and shift points.

You cant bore a TB without making a new plate. Its like having a vacumm leak. The IAC can only adjust so much for the extra air getting by

the V6 guys have known for awhile that the extra heat and a bored TB is not good. The tb will crack.....