Whats tits is that we are a dealer for Goodyear, Dunlop, Michelin, BFG etc. I can get high end tires WAY cheaper than everybody would pay from tire rack. My next set of tires are going to be some seriously high end tires. Auto repair kinda sucks but hey, its great if your a car guy lol
When I really got on the gas, like to get onto a highway, if I had the AC on it would screach. If I had the AC off, It wouldnt. Long story short? AC compressor pulley glazed over. Fine grit sandpaper and a little brake cleaner on a rag and it was fine after that.
I get things at shop cost so even if I am buying a more expensive filter its still cheaper than what the general public buys.
Basically when I change my oil, I expect it to be slightly discolored when it comes out, NOT black. If its a little darker than I like, the next oil change is a few hundred miles sooner Frequency is more important than special additives and such. As long as its a quality oil that meets current specs (IE no off brand motor oils, a decent name), then Im good.
One of these days, I am going to stick the car up on the dyno at work, run it, then use some ultra high end expensive "performance increasing" oil and check out the results.... maybe when I have a bit more money floating around lol
Wix filters are a bit pricey (also sold as Napa Premium) but they are very high quality filters. A lot of great features built in to them. If you go to an autoparts store that carries wix they should have a display out with one cut apart. At work we use valvoline filters. Not as many "features" but definetly a high quality filter. Made in USA. I have had ONE yes, ONE defective filter from valvoline and I have done HUNDREDS of oil changes with them. Purolator has a few different lines. Their premium line is close to wix, their standard line is definetly a cheaper quality. The canisters are thinner, but still, they are decent filters.
Fram is junk. I believe mopar filters are made by WIX, and stay away from off brand filters, especially imports from china.
As for torque and HP increases, thats a load of crap. It will not INCREASE horsepower, it will only recapture some of it lost to friction. These oils make these claims because they can reduce FRICTION better (not necessarily wear). As for Royal Purple, HP "gains" are only like 2-3%.
Today my check engine light popped on (I was doing a fuel injection service and didn't fully connect intake while running the cleaner) So I grab the computer (OTC Genysis scan tool) and proceed to clear the code. Only, the strange thing about this car is that whenever you hook up the computer, pump in the model information and go to read the codes, the light automatically goes off, and the engine revs and stays between 2500 and 3000 rpm. Its the most ridiculous thing Ive seen to date, and of course, Its only on my car lol. When I go to read or clear the codes, it says "No DTC present" when I KNOW the light was on. Any explanation? This Usually happens when I go to scan it through the vehicle specific Scan. When you scan as "global OBDII" the engine does not rev but you still can not read pending codes or code history?
Ever hear of this before? Ive run into this on my car once before, no Idea whats going on with it. Im going to have my Snap On guy scan it with a MODIS to see if its the OTC tool doing it or my car. God I hope its the tool...
Its a waste of money to switch to synthetic this far in the game. Synthetic lubricates "better" than conventional motor oils. What the hell good does that do you when the motor has already been "worn" by conventional oil over 117k miles? Irrational thinking.
I'm a mechanic, so I have seen my share of engines. FREQUENCY of your oil change is what truly matters. The 5,000 and 7,500 mile mobile synthetic oil is a lot of marketing. While it is true that conventional oil breaks down over time, and this stuff supposedly will not, what the commercials conveniently fail to address is that regardless of what type of oil, both will become loaded with particles of carbon and metal. A filter can not catch everything, if it did it would hardly flow and oil through it.
High Mileage oil is a good idea for high mileage cars, or cars that burn/leak oil. My parents have a 98 Durango with 106K on it. It "consumed" oil form day 1. Doesn't smoke nor does it leak, it just slowly burns it over time. Maybe about 1quart every 2000 miles? I recently switched to high mileage oil and it barely went through a half quart between oil changes. It helps to rejuvenate seals to stop leaks.
My car is about to click 115k this week. 2 Oil changes ago I went for QS high mileage oil. This oil change I went for regular 10-30 but I used 1/2 quart of Lucas additive in it. I HIGHLY recommend you guys at least try this oil. You typically want about 20% of the engines capacity, so I only added 1/2 a quart (4qt motor). Definitely quieted it down on cold starts and it seems to run smoother. We are big advocates of this stuff at work for higher mileage engines. Check it out.
depends on whether or not they're 2 way 3 way.. etc
No, I mean are they "crossed over" in the amp so the signal they are getting is only for bass? They are paper speakers with a paper "dish" in the center, no tweeter or anything.
Thank you for the reply, you guys were right. Friday I was screwing with the balance and fade of the stereo and determined that the one speaker is on its way out, so I bit the bullet and bought Memphis PR series for the fronts and installed one of them today after work and I will put in the other one tomorrow. I used two ways in the doors with swivel tweeters. I just had to test it out so I turned it on and it was a world of difference. The speakers simply degraded in quality over the last 6 years or so. One thing I noticed is that these handle volume quite well but I am considering disconnecting the center dash speaker, as It sounds like its just flapping around because it can not handle the power at higher volumes. Do you guys use this speaker? Do I really need it???
When I installed it, it went fairly well. The only "issue" I had was that the OEM speakers are 6 3/4 and the replacements are 6 1/2. Luckily the place I bought the speakers from warned me about this and gave me a set of sosche adapter places. Basically I pulled the door panel off, disconnected the connector, removed the speaker, then removed the plastic "housing". I had to slightly enlarge the holes in the adapter plates with a hand reamer real quick. I use double stick tape all around the perimeter and then used 2 screws. Basically the double stick tape prevents rattles when heavy bass hits. I then mounted the speaker to the adapter place using 3 screws. Then back to the door goes the plastic housing, also secured with double stick tape to prevent rattles. The speakers came with wire, so I clipped the factory wires before the connectors (in case I needed to re-install originals). And I soldered and shrink-wrapped the wires. Bada-Bing lol
So once I get the other door speaker installed, I am going to experiment a little bit more with that center channel. Next is the rear speakers. Replacing the speakers with more sensitive ones is a big improvement. My only other concern is that there might be a little too much on the high end, so depending on the 6x9's, I might have to go with SUBS!!! But thats another project for another day.
So what do you guys think about that little center channel speaker? Is it the weak point I believe it to be?
Thank you for the replies guys. I am quite new to car audio. I think I am going to go with the Memphis brand because a few different people have mentioned that Memphis is a quality name. I was talking to the owner of the shop and he said the Memphis PR series will do well with a factory amp but can handle the power of an after market amp if I choose.
So what I'm sensing here is that upgrading the speakers will give me a noticeable improvement, but ideally I would want to go to an after market amp correct?
My absolute number 1 priority is that, unless it burns up, I keep the head unit stock. I do not want anybody knowing the car has a stereo in it. 1 because I like the stock look but two, at work my car is parked on the side of the building which is on a corner lot so I can not keep an eye on the car and nobody really walks around the side other than morning and closing time.
What sort of job is it to replace me factory amp with an after market amp, assuming I keep the Head unit stock? I know its easy if I upgrade it, but how would I adapt the amp to work with the stereo I have now?
But most importantly, I will see somewhat of an improvement by upgrading the speakers, correct? I plan on purchasing them tommorow.
Hey Everybody. I Just found this site, and Im glad I did. Anyway, Im looking to upgrade the Factory system in my 01 Sebring LXI coupe. I Absolutely want to keep the factory head unit in the car for two reasons... 1, It flows with the interior and 2, it has the built in changer. I have the Infinity 7 speaker system (a center channel dash, 2 tweeters, 2 63/4 in the doors and 6x9's in the deck) I Also have the Infinity mr472783 amp.
I blew out the infinity speaker in the dash so I modified the dash to accept a Memphis PR series 3 1/2 speaker. Im a mechanic so Dash work isn't a big deal for me.
My problem with the current system is that at higher volume levels it breaks up and distorts. I was speaking to a local audio place as well as a crutchfield online tech guy and both agreed that my stock speakers lack a noticeable crossover point so they get distortion, and both recommended switching to a higher quality speaker. The local Place is suggesting Memphis PR's and the crutchfield rep suggests JBL GTO series. Im leaning towards the Memphis route because they are local and the guy quoted me a great price.
What do you guys think? Are the speakers going to make any sort of difference? I would eventually like to add two 10 inch subs (a friend of mine, oddly enough, has two Memphis 10's he is willing to sell me). The Audio Place near me suggested upgrading the speakers first to see if it meets my needs before I add sub's.
Do any of you guys have any experience with my audio system, and will it make much of a difference? Also, he was going to sell me 3 way's, should I go with 2ways or 3 ways? Im looking to upgrade, not win any competitions. I want something better, but not necessarily over the top ya know? Any input would be appreciated.
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