sorry nykon, I was in a bad mood writing that post. And justbringit, yeah i know I fucked up ohms law.
But still, the advantage of iridiums and platinums is that they take less voltage to fire. Its actually good to use high end plugs on a car with a weak or "tired" ignition because of this.
Like I said, I was in a bad mood writing that, I didnt mean to attack anybody lol
Definitely. For future reference to you guys, if you are having a hardcore computer issue, I would seek a shop with a MODIS scan tool. Built in osciliscope as well as component tester. Superior to the Genysis, however also costs twice as much
I scanned it with the Snap On modis today (instead of my Genysis) and it worked fine. The OTC scanner just doesnt cooperate with my car, thankfully the car is alright.
I have never seen so much information in one thread.
Nykon, you REALLY need to do some research before you start posting.
Heat range has nothing to do with the "temperature of the spark" as you stated. The "heat range" of a plug is defined as the plugs ability to dissipate heat from the tip of the spark plug. The Length and construction of the center insulator greatly affects this. A "hotter" plug will dissipate heat from the tip quicker than a "cooler" plug will, hence affecting the temperature of the combustion chamber.
As for iridium, the performance advantage has nothing to do with the fact that iridium is harder than platinum. The advantage comes from the fact that iridium has a melting point over 1000 degrees higher than platinum, so the center electrode can be much smaller than platinum. This means it takes less voltage to fire the plug, and in turn a larger more "powerful" spark (because as we know, when voltage is cut in half amperage doubles)
And as for the plugs, I have installed hundreds, maybe even thousands, of these things into cars. Both customers and my own, and the only problem I have ever seen with them was on ONE plug the porcelain was cracked out of the box.
In bad cases, the oil can seem through the boot and serve as a voltage drain point for the plugs (cant remember the specific term) but its kinda what happens with old wires in the rain. you will get some loss of power.
And yeah our cars suck quite a bit... I do bosch 100K so I never have to do them again lol it sucks. Being that Im a mechanic I absolutely hate having to repair my own car cuz I dont get paid for it lol
The front valve cover gasket in the 3.0 looks to be pretty easy to do, mines starting to leak a bit.
As far as oil in the cylinders, what makes you say that? If there is a little bit in there, then it should burn off. If those little o rings are leaking, that wouldnt cause oil to run into the cylinder. When you pulled the plug out, what did the tip look like? Was it white and tan looking, wet and brown or caked up with black dry soot and carbon?
Matrix is a pile of excrement. Toyota's has been slipping ALOT on quality in the past 2-3 years. Too big for their briches. I would either try to talk the price down on the silver lancer or talk the warranty up on the red one.
If Im understanding you correctly, the plug wells were filled with oil, not the cylinders themselves right?
If you pull off the valve cover, there is the seal around the perimeter as well as three little "O" shaped gaskets that go around each plug hole. Just order up a gasket kit and replace them. Common problem as cars with plugs through the valve cover start to age. Also, replace ALL the plugs at once, and if you cant, at least replace with the same model. NEVER mix and match plugs.
350 for Pads, rotors and labor is kinda cheap. 350 for all that and Parts and labor to replace an MC is a steal. Somethings wrong. We charge 90$ for front brake service. We use high end raybestos pads which average 100$ a set, and High end raybestos PG+ rotors which average around 100$ each as well.
As for rotors, if your looking for a general increase in stopping performance, go for performance pads. Flat face rotors will actually provide better stopping power than cross drilled/vented rotors for everyday driving. Flat rotors have a larger surface area and hence more friction material in contact with the rotors. The word "performance" can adapt many meanings. "Performance rotors" typically will not provide better stopping for everyday driving, however they excel when it comes to heavy frequent braking, such as road racing, where rotors will heat up and brake fade can occur. For everyday driving, the slot down the middle of the pad provides sufficient gas relief for the brakes.
Hi guys. 01 Sebring LXI coupe. V6. Needs both lower ball joints. This POS car uses a lower control arm assembly, and list is 312$ according to the computer, now, I get things at cost but our cost will still be over 250, so I was wondering if my car would be covered under the recall? Thank God I don't have to pay the 400$ labor.....
I'm the second owner of my car and I got it at 109k... Previous owner used Penzoil.. Started to use Castrol Syntec Blend w/ a Purolater Pure One Filter and noticed a nice increase.. About 100 miles b4 I had to change it I put in Seafoam cuz I heard good things about it... I was supposed to leave it in there for 100 miles but it was in there for about 50 miles... It was pitch black.... And sludge like... Why? Cuz Penzoil is parrafin based aka wax.... Let me tell you, my car didn't even have this much get up and go w/ a tune up.... So it proves Penzoil gums up your engine... I'm gonna use another can at the end of this oil change for the full 100 miles and reap the benefits from that... Just my 2 cents
You have been supplied false information. Pennzoil IS NOT "wax based oil". Pennzoil is made from Parraffinic crude oil, which is found in Pennsylvania, and is SUPERIOR for lubrication when compared to Asphaltic crude oil from other parts of the world. Parraffinic is a Chemistry term, Parraffin wax was given the name because it happened to be Parraffinic
Two audio places have listened to my system and have both told me the speakers are not getting enough power at high end, and I should consider amping them.
My problem is that the majority of affordable amps are 4 channels, and I obviously have a 7 channel amp, correct? My front doors are memphis PR's with a swivel tweeter in them, and I will probably upgrade the rears to 6x9's. What do you guys think, what do I do about loosing my door tweeters? If I have extra power to the door 2 ways I installed, will it compensate for the lack of tweeters?
Also, can I use the stock speaker wires with an after market amp?
mopar makes a timing belt kit that includes the idler and tensioner for 150...
BINGO. Do the kit. Your going to spend more money, but while your in there do the tensioner and idler pulley. Its a labor intensive job and the kit means cheap insurance. Dont cheap out on critical parts like these, buy the best you can get your hands on. Go to Napa or a professional auto parts warehouse in your area. If you have the 3.0, do the O rings on the intake crossover tube behind the water pump as well.
Isn't nice how some of the old school tricks are forgotten by most but remember by some? Karma for you Jim.
I'm also guessing that that can be applied to all of the pulleys if you wanted to make sure that the belts didn't slip in, say, high RPM situations where it is utterly crucial for you to have really good acceleration.
Why thank you. I have tons of old school stuff I would love to share. I'm still a kid but hey, when your boss is has been repairing cars for over 40 years you pick up on a lot of cool things you wont find in any tech school or text book. Now that I know its appreciated, Ill drop some stuff in here and there.
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