Here's a pic of my GTO in the latest strom that ripped through Ohio yesterday, as you can see, nothing but white, and it was takin with my cell, so its not a very good quality pic
Most Harley's an snowmobiles are in the 1,000+cc range, whats our engines, 1997cc's? maybe thats the 2.0 litre, anyways, those are also the 53000 series turbo, there out now with the 66000 series, a more larger turbo that will support up to 340hp. So, why not twin turbo to easily reach my 400hp goal? I know there isnt the greatest amount of room behind our engines, but heres an area where these turbo's really shine. They dont require any oil or coolant lines. Why? because the engineers shortened up the turbine shaft and moved the bearing in front of the compressor. Shortening the shaft gives it TREMENDOUS amounts of strength. Shaft length usually determines the CRS, Critical Rotational Speed. Once that point is reached the shaft bends, throwing it out of balance which makes it bend more, throwing it more out of balance, etc until it gets so bad the wheels touch the housings and its all over, all in a few milliseconds. By also moving the bearings in front of the compressor the bearings aren't exposed to the heat from the exhaust, saving them from the dreaded "heat soakback" that so commonly happens and why turbo's are now watercooled. Plus this turbo has its own oil resovoir that sprays a mist of oil on the bearings, not floods them like garrett and all the other turbo's. Even on modern turbo's it takes roughly 2hp just to spin ball bearings through oil, which creates more turbo lag cause of the friction. And because it has its own oil supply, it can be mounted anywhere without any oil an coolant lines, even be mounted vertically.
Now about the "zero-lag" part. I agree there is always going to be lag in a tubo because of how a turbo works. Thats where the A/R of the housing comes in. Think of the A/R of the housing as a nozzle on a garden hose, the water being the exhaust from your motor, spraying onto a wheel of some sort. At idle, or low flow, there isnt much work being done because there isnt much energy available. As the flow increases there is more energy and the water will start to turn the wheel. Now if you put a smaller A/R housing or "nozzle" on, you create a faster moving stream containing more energy. This will get the wheel spinning sooner than before but it will suffer in the higher range because it will be over-speeding the wheel, not good. If you put a bigger nozzle on it will take longer for the wheel to start to spin, but theres more potential in the higher end to make lots more boost. To get around this frustration engineers design Variable Vane (VV) or Variable Area Turbine Nozzles (VATN). Instead of an open exhaust housing commonly found on turbo's, the aerocharger has vanes around the turbine. At idle/low flow, the vanes close forming a very small gap for the exhaust to go through. This small gap causes the exhaust to speed up before it hits the turbine wheel, therefore making the turbine spin faster, once you mash on the gas the vanes start to open to accomodate the added exhaust. Once the turbo reaches the amount of boost you want, the vanes open wide to limit boost.
The only downside to these turbo is they generally weigh and cost more because theres more parts. But it saves headaches on tapping into your engines oil and coolant systems and having to drill a hole in your oil pan. Plus finding space for a wastegate and running the appropriate piping required for that. VATN are mostly used in semi's, the Ford Powerstroke 6.0L Diesels, and some cars. So they have been around for awhile. But none of them moved the bearings to the front and added there own oil supply. I first read about VATN turbo in a book i picked up at Books A Million, I cant remember the name right off hand i'll have to find the book, but it did specifically talk about the aerocharger for a short bit, but at the time of publishing the turbo's had stopped being manufactured due to the high costs at the time. But with today's greater technology and faster, cheaper manufacturing, they're being made again. And hopefully this time they'll catch on.
What if I want a different turbo? Are you guys willing to flex and bend things to suit the customer or is it a "this is the kit, this is all we will do?" If your asking what turbo, here's the link http://www.aerocharger.com/
Yeah i was just gettin ready to say that i just went back an searched, and for some reason i never saw the additional pages, and the cheapest i found close (40 mi) from me was $300. But there wasnt any information given, so i went to the next cheapest, safest engine and that was $450. $200 is more of my price range but the good old saying of you get what you pay for can especially be true in this situation. I'm just gonna sit tight, keep reading and searching and wait till i sell my GTO before i start dropping money for parts.
The part of the build that really scares me is the tuning section. I can build the motor and fab what i need no prob. But when it comes to the electrical part of these cars, i dont know much about them and cant really find out much information about em. I've been thinkin about buyin a shop manual and seein what i can learn from that. I know i can add a fuel controller, but will that be able to control ignition or just fuel? Do our computers sense knock? theres just too much electrical information that i dont know that makes me uncomfortable, and untill i am comfortable i'm not puttin anything in my car or cuttin a single wire. Is there anyway i can get the fuel/ignition maps? along with the ve map? or is there anything out there that will install in my laptop, and plug into my car, so i can datalog? I know i'm starting too ask too many questions so i'll just hold off on the other ones. I'd just like to be figuring everything out while i'm not doing anything, that way i know what parts to look for and how much to save.
Thats where i found the $800 motor, and no blocks what so ever, but its been awhile since i looked on there and i dont know how often their inventory changes. When i get home i'm gonna start callin up a few junkyards and see if they might have anything. Also thought about tryin to find a good eclipse forum and see if anyone on their has somethin layin around. If anyone has any leads let me know please. Doesnt really matter what condition its in as long as the block is good, i'm building a motor from the ground up whether its the 2.5 or the 3.0, but preferably the 3.0.
That would be great if you could do that, i would really appreciate that. i think im heading home sometime next week, so i might be able to pick it up either next weekend or the weekend after depending on what can be arranged.
If you can, sell those cheap chinease hard ass rubber nankangs an get some better quality tires. My Talon came with Wanli's and the sidewalls split on all 4 tires, not because they were old or dry rotted, just so hard that after time it got too hard an split. That hard ass rubber will get incredible miles on em tho if thats what your after. I just dont wanna see a member of this forum get hurt because of a tire failure.
F**k it, i'll do it anyways, thats why you have a spare motor. If theres any doubt, i'll consider sleevin it if its not too expensive. sroufe7, If you dont mind, when the time comes i'll need to ask you some questions about your FI setup as far as tuning goes. Any reccomendations far as what fuel controllers to go with? I'll need to know what alll parts you can get. I have the turbo, intercooler, an piping already sourced out. But i'm havin a hard time findin forged pistons, i'd like to run forged pistons an rods, moly rings, an aluminum radiator if i can find one. i'm gonna see if i can figure out a way to run an electric water pump cuz there so much more efficient and will save a few hp. head studs, headd gasket, exhaust header gaskets, fuel rails and once i compute it out, injectors sized somewhere between 310-330cc.
I posted this in the v6 forum but figured i'd have better luck here since it seems like theres more activity here. I'm planning/designing/acquiring parts for a 3.0 turbo build. i found a good cheap 2.5. So my question is, can the 2.5's 85.5mm bore be machined out to the 3.0's 91mm specs? I've tried to search an look but i havent come up with anything. I know the 72 an 73 share the same crank, same stroke of 78mm, seems to be the only difference is the bore size. So wasnt sure if mitsu casted these two differently or used the same block with two different bore sizes. if they used the same block, i'll buy the 2.5 and bore it out.
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