I don't think you know how the setup i am talking about works.
to small of injector is NEVER better than one that is to big. Would you rather run lean or rich?
The 8 injector setup is adding an injector to each intake runner and are ONLY used during boost. Once you come out of boost it runs just on the stock injectors.
So are they similar to cold start injectors, and just run off an on/off switch? They used to do this on the old TD's to run higher boost, except just using one or sometimes 2 cold start injectors and boost pressure switches. Or are the ones you/they use bigger than that, or like normal injectors?
Well maybe these cars' electronics are different, but my buddy had E-Garbage ( ) on his SRT and it sucked, due mostly to the fact that you couldn't adjust the timing at all. I know this is possible on some other cars, so maybe it works on the Avenger, but I doubt it as it runs pretty much the same type of computer. He did have the E-o1 also, and it was pretty sweet.
The 2.3 Ford EFI Turbo engine used Garrett T3's, very similar to the Chrysler turbos except Ford used the standard T3 flange. They're good to about 15-18 psi stock I think. I know using a compressor off an 87-88 T-bird Turbo Coupe is an upgrade for a Chrysler T3.
And to the OP, cam kits for these engines are 500-800 bucks new, so I hope you have deep pockets
i am the op and never even said anything about a neon head maybe you should read the thread again i was asking alian about the specifics of my 420 head going on my 2.4 motor . the only reason the word neon is in this post is because the pic of the oil pan i posted was for a neon As far as not knowing about neons unfortunitly i do i have owend 4 of them so i def know the dif between the neon 420a and the avenger 420a but thanks for clearing it up for me I hope i havent offended any neon owners with the 420a but thats what it is weather you like it or not
Ahh well my bad then You were talking about using 2.4 heads and cams an I got confuzzled I guess
You need a complete 420A head from an Avenger/Eclipse/Sebring/etc, not a Neon 420A head.
technically speaking neon don't have 420a ! they have the D4RE (dual 4 rear exhaust) or S4RE (single 4 rear exhaust) engines don't tell any serious neon tuners that he owns a 420a
yupe the bitch is back !
Alain
I never knew that... Sweet!
Me either, good info. I've never seen anyone call them that though, even on the Neon forum, and since the OP here doesn't seem to know much about them, I was just trying to clarify for him that he can't use a Neon head.
since when will a 2.0 not produce 200hp? thats one of the craziest things ive ever read!!
since it was tried several times to break the 200 hp barrier with a Normally Aspirated 2.0 chrysler engine some neon with tons of bolt on and parts never available to the avenger sebring crowd came close best Normally Aspirated engine setup I heard off did 176 WHp in a neon that should be around 195-198 Hp at the crank
I think recently one did make 200hp, I'll find the link. He did have a crapload of work in it though.
You can always buy a FSM (Factory Service Manual), that will have every detail of every repair imaginable in it. If you were closer I'd help, I do all my own engine work and swaps. I've R&R'd 5 or 6 different engines in my '72 D100, 2 in other trucks I owned, 3 in my GLHS, etc. And of course, there's the '96 Avenger engine I'm swapping into my '84 Charger But, I'm in SC, about 10-12 hours away.
If you take your time and don't overly force anything, it's not hard to do if you are mechanically inclined. Make sure you keep all your bolts sorted out as you pull it out, so you can remember where they go.
Bad lifter maybe? Probably a bad rod bearing though. If it's not knocking at idle, you may be able to get away w/ swapping the bearings out. Which you should be able to do in the car. If it's knocking at idle, the engine will have to come apart.
There's a sending unit behind the starter on my '96 engine. Well I say behind the starter, but actually it's on the backside of the engine, close to the bellhousing, in the middle of the block. Since my engine is in a Charger w/ the original trans I have to remove this sensor and plug the hole to fit my starter. On the Avenger the starter is at the front, so you should have no problem be able to look in and see it, maybe even change it from up top.
o man i am taking it in thats not a prob its just i am the kind of person thats loves a chalange. and the spark is hitting the gas cause flames come out the exuast lol crazy hay ... its almost like she is realy flooded
Ding ding ding, we have a winner! If you have spark and there's still fuel coming out the exhaust, it's definitely flooded, which means the injectors are sticking wide open for some reason. Bad computer maybe, I've seen a Ford truck do exactly the same thing, computer turned out to be bad.
BTW if you like your oil pan at all, you'll change the oil before you run the engine again It's definitely gonna be full of gas, and aside from it getting thinned out and not lubing properly, I've quite a few stories of people forgetting to change the oil and blowing the oil pan right off the engine.
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) on his SRT and it sucked, due mostly to the fact that you couldn't adjust the timing at all. I know this is possible on some other cars, so maybe it works on the Avenger, but I doubt it as it runs pretty much the same type of computer. He did have the E-o1 also, and it was pretty sweet.
