maybe you need to replace the cap{fuel tank}, or maybe you are not closing the cap hard enough. alot of times those fuel station guys they close the cap not to a hard tightness, and it gets loose later on. make sure you tell them or you close it you self hard enough. like 2-3 full turns.
1. remove the overflow tank, its only going to get in the way later. All you have to do is remove the cap/hose and pull it straight up. 2. loosen the tension on the p/s pump belt and remove it. Do the same with the A/C belt. 3. remove the mounting bolts for the p/s pump. No need to d/c the hoses, just lay the pump aside. 4. There are a few wire harnesses attached to that side of the plenum, remove them and shove them aside as well. 5. If the front end of the car isn't already on jack stands, go ahead and jack it up. 6. Remove the right-front tire. (now would be a good time to drain the coolant system and you may as well flush it too.) 7. The splash guard hangs from two bolts and two screw-rivets. Be gentle with the little plastic screws, they strip easily. You also don't want to apply pressure, as that will push them back in. 8. Once the splash guard is off, remove the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley). you will need a 1/2" drive breaker bar and the right socket. wedge the breaker bar in under the frame piece to your left and tap the starter to loosen the center bolt. loosen the center bolt with your hands several turns and then leave it, you will need it there in a few minutes. 9. You will need a Chrysler 3-arm puller. Autozone will loan you one for about 60 bucks. Once you pull the pulley out as far as the bolt is unscrewed, you should be able to pull it off. If not, unscrew it some more and repeat. Put the harmonic balancer aside. 10. Put the bolt back into the crankshaft. 11. Remove the bolts holding the plastic timing covers and set them aside. The timing cover is a three piece set. (remember to always take special care with keeping track of bolts) 12. Put the breaker bar back into the crankshaft bolt and rotate CLOCKWISE until the timing marks on BOTH camshafts AND the crankshaft line up with their respective marks. It is fairly simple to tell where the marks are. There is a small dimple in the gears that correspond with grooves on the engine behind them. 13. This is important as if timing is lost it is a very tedious job to find it again, and failure to do so can possibly KILL YOUR PISTONS AND VALVES as they can collide with improper timing! 14. Remove the two bolts holding the hydraulic belt tensioner. It is a cylinder looking device with a pin protruding out at the belt-facing end. Set it aside. 15. Remove the belt. 16. The water pump is the pulley in the middle directly above the crankshaft pulley. Remove the larger two sizes of bolts first, as this will remove the flange piece as well as the pump. 17. Remove the flange piece from the pump. This is done by removing the smaller bolts. Again, take special care to keep track of them. 18. Clean up the flange piece and block and make sure the sealing surfaces are in good shape. It would not be a bad idea to hit them with a good residue free solvent like M.E.K., then wipe it off good. DO NOT use toluene!! (This would also be a good time to look for any leaks and make sure the engine is clean and tidy down there.) 19. Put a small bead of BLUE atv sealant around the surface of the flange that seals to the pump. (BLUE!!) 20. Do the same on the new pump. 21. Drop on the gasket and put the pump and the flange together and SNUG the bolts. DO NOT tighten them yet just enough the keep it snug and from moving at all. 22. Put a bead of atv around the other side of the flange piece and on the side of the gasket that will seal to the block. 23. Mount the whole shebang back to the block and snug all the bolts down. 24. Torque all the bolts to spec in two stages and in a criss-cross pattern. 25. Put the new belt around the rear camshaft sprocket and clip or GENTLY clamp it there. Go under the pump and over the front cam sprocket TIGHTLY, clip it there too. Go around the idler pulley (the one just under the front cam sprocket), under the crankshaft (TIGHTLY!) and finally put it around the tensioner pulley. It should be a snug fit. If it wont go on, there is to much slack elsewhere. Also make sure you don't move anything out of time while doing this. It may take some time to get just right. 26. Put the hydraulic tensioner in a bench-vise at a 90 degree angle to compress the pin into the cylinder. Make sure you don't put it at an angle and risk it flying out and shattering your face. There are corresponding holes in the body and in the pin that will line up when under the proper compression. When this happens, insert an Allen wrench or similar pin in there to hold it in place. It should be inserted in such a way that you can get it out after remounting the tensioner. 27. Mount the tensioner back to the block. This really doesn't need to be torqued down, just make sure its good and tight. 28. Double check all the timing, and if it's all correct, pull out the pin and the belt will be tensioned. 29. Rotate to engine CLOCKWISE twice. If the engine will not move at a certain place, the timing is wrong. 30. Now its time to put the timing covers back on. 31. Now its time to put the pulley back on. Tighten the center nut down as much as you can before the engine starts moving. When that happens, whack it with a pipe-wrench or something until it stops getting tighter. 32. The rest is the reverse of disassembly!
Installation Instructions for 2.5 V6 Sebring, Avenger:
TIMING BELT COVER
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the accessory drive belts.
Remove the crankshaft pulley.
I didnt know that you are going to do a write up, but Thank you non the less.
Waterpump is NOT an easy change ... You need to replace the timing belt/tensioner and and pump at the same time ... With your lack of automotive knowledge I'd take it to a dealer or mechanic and have it properly diagnoised and repaired
I see. I guess i would have to wait and see if it is actually the water pump. if it is, than i would change the timing belt and the and the tensioner while im at it if i take it to the shop like you said. but i have a feeling that it is the radiator that is junked and what causing me this problem or there is really air in the system. I have to find out how i can get rid of that air that is in my system, if at all...
START CAR LET IT WARM UP TOUCH BOTTOM RADIATOR HOSE IF HOT IT IS CYCLING WATER IF NOT IT IS NOT CYCLING WATER. WHEN INSTALLING THERMOSTAT SPRING GOES TOWARDS MOTOR
Quote
air in the system???
SOMETIMES AIR WILL GET TRAPPED IN FRONT OF THE THERMOSTAT AND THE THERMO WONT GET HOT ENOUGH TO OPEN
Hey Pugsley, I did what you said, I started the car, and let it warm up, and i touched the bottom hose, the one that goes from the thermostat itself into the bottom of the radiator, and it doesnt seems like its hot or even getting hot. I will have to check it again just to make sure. if there is air in the system, how do i let that air go out of the system?
Well replace the radiator, but I'm not sure that's your only problem.
again, you'll have to hope someone with the V6 responds. I don't know if the WP is visible. The timing belt cover might be blocking your view.
Also as long as you put the new T-stat back in the way the old one was, then it's probably correct.
Where are you located again?
yeah, i think i will have to replace the radiator because i bought it from the junk yard, and it looks like its not supposed to be steaming like that from one tiny place on itself. as far as the guys with the v6 engine, i hope some one will reply too........ but yes, the T-stat is back in its place like the old one was. I am located in new york.
I don't have the V6, but I'm assuming its somewhere along the Timing belt. Look for a coolant line (pretty large) coming off of a gear that the timing belt is running.
May sound like a stupid question but did you put the thermostat in the right way? As far as I know (and I'm no radiator expert) the radiator should be completely sealed and there shouldn't be any kind of steam at all. I would guess that your radiator is junk.
Let me ask you this, is the Water pump is visible once i open the hood up and look for the timing belt? because i can see my timing belt pretty easily, and i do hear some raffling sound some where in the area of the timing belt, but i didnt see any water leaking when i looked down under the car or in that area. As far as your question, it is not stupid at all, but the way i put it, i just removed all 4 bolts, removed the old thermostat, took out the round gasket from the old thermostat and put it in the new thremostat, put the thersmostat back in its housing, i used a wrench to known the gasket tightly to its place because it was sticking out a lil bit when i tried pushing it back into its place with my fingers. one the thermostat was sitting tightly in its place, i put the front housing back in there, screw the 4 bolts back together, and that was thata. i am assuming this is the right way..? and lastly, i do think that this radiator is actually junk. it just doesnt seem right when you look at it and you see the steam is coming out of there...
So you're losing coolant. Are you having overheating problems? You said it warms up, but does it warm up enough to worry about? If it's the water pump, you'll likely hear a whurring/rattling sound. Or you'll see leaking by the water pump. The second fan, is for the A/C only. It only comes on when the A/C is on, so no worries about that.
well, i am not really losing coolant. it is overheating and i can tell it by the gauge, when it goes beyond the normal level, and it keeps going up towards the "H" sign, thats when i stop the car, and open the hood up, and there is steam, like literally like a hot steam that is coming out from the train, same thing in here, its coming out from the upper left{passenger} side of the radiator{both from the back and front part of the radiator}, and it looks like the coolant is dripping down from that area all the way down to the bottom of the radiator, and thats where the leaking is coming from. I think it is the radiator itself that is fucked up.. let me ask you DT, where is the water pump located? and thanks for that info on the 2nd fan{the small one}. At least I know that i can drive with at least one {the big} fan.
alright, some news guys... not soo good, but i guess not so bad, because now i know its not the thermostat. Well, I bought a new thermostat, i bought the gasket too, but the gasket that they gave me was the gasket for the coolant, not for the thremostat it self, so i just used the old gasket for now. but any way... i put the new thremostat, it wasnt that hard to replace, just 4 bolts, and everything was fine, i let the car warm up for about 5 minutes after i put the new thermostat, drove it, and it looked like it is working fine and stayed on the middle on the gauge where it shows if its hot or cold, but then, it started to warm up.. : ( i knew that it wasnt the thermostat right there. i came back home, opened up the hood while the car was still running, and i see the same thing, the upper left{passenger} side of the radiator is steaming, and the radiator it self is sort of overflowing with anitfreeze from the bottom of it, like it saying too much antifreeze..... dont get me wrong, it does not literally throws water away, but it drops a few drips in a steady pace, and i checked everything earlier, and there are definetly no holes that are causing the water to leak. now, what i also wanted to mention is that i noticed that when i came back home, and parked in the driveway, and let the car idle like that, it seems like it shows that the gauge in the dashboard, it shows that its not warming up. what i am saying is that when i was driving, it was going up steadily, but after i came back home, and let the car idle like that, it stayed at a steady level of hotness, and i believe it went down just a bit. another thing that i wanted to mention guys, is since my last accident{3 months ago}, when i bought this radiator from the junkyard, it didnt come with radiator fans[{there are 2 of them i believe}, it was just the radiator it self. however, when the accident happened and when my stock radiator broke during that accident, one of the fans was still good, and it was the big one that sits on the driver side of the radiator, but the small one was cracked and bented bad, so i just tossed that one out. Ever since i bought this used radiator in the junk yard, i put my stock fan{driver side fan} that was still okay from the accident, but i never put the passenger side fan on the radiator it self. i asked some one if it is okay if i just drive with one radiator fan{the big one} and they said its okay, and there was some one that actualy drove his car like that for about a year, and it was fine. so i want to know, is this why the radiator/car heats up because i dont have that passenger side fan on the radaitor? or is it the water pump? or it may be the radiator it self that needs to be replaced? god i hope i can finish this by tommorow, because i need to get back to work tommorow.
you know what, i am going to try and replace the thremostat and the gasket like you guys said, and see what happens. i hope something good will happen. thanks for that advice to pugsley.
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