And gloves. lots and lots of gloves [latex, or neoprene].
If you look closely at the two cloth bags, you'll notice one is WOVEN together
and one is just chopped pieces pressed together into a sheet
.
Now, if you use Body Filler [which is what i'd use]:
1: Buy a can of the body filler from Advance, Napa, etc. It will be red with a classic red mustang on the front.
2: Buy a tube of Cream Hardener. Not the clear.
3: Remember, the more you put on, the more you have to sand off. Do a youtube or google search on body filler sanding techniques.
4: You will use a decent amount of hardener. If not, you will be left with a soft, and slightly tacky amount of filler [which is a nightmare]. you'll have to pull it off, and start again.
You could use a can of Mopar's Combustion Chamber Cleaner. It's an aerosol can.
You can follow the directions on the back, or you can do it the way that 2 chrysler techs told me to do it.
Tech method: Engine off, empty the can into the intake manifold with the TB WOT. You'll have to hold it while you do this, so make sure you have something to keep it open with. TRY to start the car a couple of times. Basically, you won't be able to. this is normal. Let set for about 4 hours. Come back out and crank the car. it will act like it doesn't want to but you'll have to keep on the throttle to make sure it stays running. run at about 2500-3500 for about 5 minutes or until all the black smoke [carbon] has evacuated your system. this will also probably restore some compression if you've significantly lost any. Afterward, wash your car's bumper.
a couple of tips:
Do this on a day you have nothing to do. Point your cars exhaust away from anything important. you don't want to get carbon on said importance.
The can cost's anywhere between 12-20 depending on your local Mitsu/Chrysler dealer parts department
lol. The Tiger Hair is ... well, this is taken from a site that sells it
"""Tiger Hair is a polyester filler fortified with long fiberglass strands for superior strength. Can be used with or without fiberglass cloth or mat. Bridges gaps in non-structural metal or fiberglass panels. Highly resistant to moisture absorption. Long strand fillers are used mainly to repair fiberglass."""
Fiberglass is broken down into the following types: Resin and Fillers. Fillers consist of Mat, Cloth, and Tiger Hair. Without the resin though, you can't really have anything.
This is from another site.
"""There are at least three different types of fiberglass; each feature different properties. The strongest and most reinforced has long strands of fiberglass in it and is called “tiger hair.” The mid-grade bondo or “mookie” is filler putty with some short strands of glass in it. The final level – finishing or smoothing mookie – is polyester-based, and until the stuff hardens, it flows like syrup into and around the nooks and crannies of your piece. This stuff isn’t very durable, which makes it easiest to sand."""
Resin is a liquid. Tiger Hair is a Resin + Strands.
and trust me, 'a little dab' of hardener does NOT go a long way. you might as well use a table or teaspoon full of it. I played around with it about a year and a half ago. lets just say that the amount of hardener it said to use, left the body filler soft and didn't dry all the way. I adjusted the amount of hardener i used for the next batch and it turned out perfect. if you lightly knock on it and hear a dull 'thud', it's too soft. if you hear a knock like on a hardwood table, you're there.
hmm. basically when you're stopping or in park right?
It's starting to sound more like the IAC. Once they go completely, it's almost impossible to get past them without replacing. Have you tried holding the pedal all the way down to the floor board as you try to crank it? not pumping, but a solid hold. Most IAC's can be gotten past temporarily by keeping the rpm above 2500. Most. Once you locate it, check the wiring [especially where the harness is] for any corrosion or needing to be cleaned.
Car's mileage? Year? Battery Tested? Alternator Tested? How long have you been experiencing this? Do you know where your Crankshaft Position Sensor is? Have you had the OBDII scanned [96+ and whether the light is on or off]? When was the last time the Timing had been paid attention to? Does it do this any other time aside from stopping at a redlight/idle?
I ask these, because everyone else will also. It's better for me to get the bulk of them out of the way now.
These are the possibilities i'm thinking of right now: IAC Sensor [Idle Air Control] Fuel pump/pressure regulator Loose Sensor. Possibly the CPS or the Camshaft sensor.
You have an Interference Engine which means, if the timing goes.... be ready to cry.
Pumping the pedal will do you no good except give your calve and thigh a workout. You have an electric pump, not a mechanical. carburetor cleaner is a big no no for throttle bodies. It's simply just too harsh for the system. That's why they make 3 different formula's: carb, throttle, and MAF Sensor cleaner.
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