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Hi all. I looked through the forums and it seems there are lots of knowledgeable people to help me out with these problems. I am working on my girlfriends 1997 Sebring Coupe 2.5L. The car idles like crap and it's throwing a random cylinder misfire code. On top of this, when i try to adjust the idle at the TB, if I slide the adjustment even a bit toward the passenger side, the idle shoots up to almost 2k. If i move it just a bit back, it drops back down to 450-550 and crappy. Also, the voltage light turned on and I have expected the alternator to go out on it soon anyways so I already picked one up and got he alternator completely loose. Problem is, I can't get the thing out of the engine compartment. I have replaced the intake plenum gasket before, so I know how to remove/install the plenum, but I was trying to avoid further disassembly. Does the intake HAVE to come off to get the alternator out? I don't mean that I want to remove the CV shaft to take it out either, even thought that looks like it might work. Let me know your thoughts on these topics and I'd appreciate it.
I saw TPS, EGR, and IAC are common problems. After reading a few threads, I am almost thinking TPS because of the Idle adjustment problem, but there was an issue with the EGR awhile back as well, so it could be the culprit as well. Thanks in advance for your help
Make sure that you're timing belt doesn't need to be replaced. If you have a weekend, the confidence, and a second vehicle for a daily driver, go for it. Otherwise, take the timing to a mechanic. Unless you're a certified, taking it to the mechanic on the timing is your best option ever. And for heavens sake, do NOT cut a certain metal 'tube' to get the alternator out. I thought it was a plastic drain tube and advised someone to cut it, only for both of us to find out, it was the timing tensioner. >.<
Good news: Alternator came out. Bad news: extra $200 spent on a new tensioner.
While you have the intake off changing the alternator, you will never get this golden oppurtunity again: Change your REAR 3 plugs and use GOOD plugs [NGK or better]. Unless of course... taking that intake manifold gets you off. lol
got the alternator out, had it tested. It was fine. Now, I get to spend 2 hours putting the thing back together. I have already had the intake off twice so It's not that big of a deal, takes me about 20 minutes to get it off. I had to remove the intake, the power steering pump, both drive belts, the EGR tube, the upper intake support bracket, some sort of vacuum or emissions box, and pull really hard to get the thing out. I drove into town and had O'Reilly's test it and it tested great, so that was a big waste of time. While disassembling the car, I did find that the body, to engine ground strap was disconnected which I guess could cause a problem. If spark doesn't have a good ground, that could cause a problem right? I don't know where else to look for this problem. I could look into how hard it is to replace the timing belt. I Have done it before on other cars and I can drive her wherever she needs to go if it takes me too long. Usually if I get a day to do something I can get it done. Me and a buddy of mine swapped engines in a honda accord and had it running again the same night we pulled the old one so I'm not too extremely worried about time. Weather has been a bigger factor the past few days since she didn't leave her keys at home the day I started the work so it got taken apart outside instead of in the garage, I might try to take it in the garage today if I go there to work on it today. Anyway, thanks for your quick responses. As far as figuring out this problem, would a faulty EGR cause some sort of problem? The tube had clogged once awhile back and they took it somewhere. All they did was clean out the tube and give it back and charge them way too much. Where should I start? Thanks again!
Grounding straps can be a problem. lol. once you have the alternator back on, have it tested on the car. If it tests good off, but bad on, that means you've got a wire problem. I know that's an obvious statement, but sometimes it helps to have it said out loud.
Well, I got the car completely back together last night and it seemed to idle a little better and drive fine so I decided to tell her that she could drive the car to school today. Apparently the car ran extremely rough and the battery light came back on so she drove back home and took her dads truck to school. WTF? So anyway, that ground strap is back on and the alternator connections are good. What other wiring commonly causes problems. How should I go about locating the problem and fixing it? Could it possibly just be the battery? Shouldn't the car run fine as long as it starts even with a shitty battery? I hate working on the POS chrysler seems to have designed their cars to be extremely annoying to work on. I work on 350 chevy's which are much easier to work on and seem to have alot less need to be worked on as well. Long story short, I am at a loss as far as how to locate the problem. Could someone point me in the right direction? Thanks!
I'm going to assume that you've already checked the voltage of all the wires, and cleaned the contacts, so the next step would be to have the alternator checked while it's on the car. If you have a local Advance or [heaven forbid] Autozone, have them use their mobile machine to check the alternator. Since it bench tested fine, if it doesn't have the same satisfactory results while it's on the car, then you'll know where to start on your wiring hunt.
As far as the battery goes, what is the:
CCA: Age*: Brand: X year warranty: Price paid*:
*If you know or bought it that is.
When i worked at Advance, we would have people who thought they knew what they were talking about, try to buy a battery that was 'inexpensive'. Even though we weren't trying to oversell them a battery that they didn't really need, they still went after the cheap one because it saved them money 'right now'. They wouldn't listen to us when we told them about the minimum required CCA for the vehicle [which i always recommend you go at least 100CCA more than the factory setting].
Actually, the problem ended up being a crappy connection. So, that problem (the battery light coming on) is fixed. Now, the misfire is another story. Turns out the middle an right injector on the front of the motor are faulty. Both cylinders are getting spark and both injectors are firing, so they must be clogged. I am looking on rockauto.com and I found some decent priced remans. Anyone have any input on these? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
Any difference between the two cheapest ones? I am not buying new ones for $150 so one of the two will have to work. Let me know! Thanks for all of the help.
damn. you got it out the top... I pulled mine out the bottom. off came the tire, shroud, tensioner pulley system, cv axle, and belt, then finally came out.
I was having misfire problems and start up problems, but my alternator was actually shot so didn't get stuck doing it for nothing. good luck on pricing. hopefully it's not to bad.
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Scott --> http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2542075 <-- 97 Chrysler Sebring Lxi 2.5L V6 - CAI, Accel 8mm wires, CCG UDP, high flow Down pipe/Magnaflow Cat, Neuspeed STB, Megan Racing rear brace.
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Now, I get to spend 2 hours putting the thing back together. I have already had the intake off twice so It's not that big of a deal, takes me about 20 minutes to get it off. I had to remove the intake, the power steering pump, both drive belts, the EGR tube, the upper intake support bracket, some sort of vacuum or emissions box, and pull really hard to get the thing out. I drove into town and had O'Reilly's test it and it tested great, so that was a big waste of time. While disassembling the car, I did find that the body, to engine ground strap was disconnected which I guess could cause a problem. If spark doesn't have a good ground, that could cause a problem right? I don't know where else to look for this problem. I could look into how hard it is to replace the timing belt. I Have done it before on other cars and I can drive her wherever she needs to go if it takes me too long. Usually if I get a day to do something I can get it done. Me and a buddy of mine swapped engines in a honda accord and had it running again the same night we pulled the old one so I'm not too extremely worried about time. Weather has been a bigger factor the past few days since she didn't leave her keys at home the day I started the work so it got taken apart outside instead of in the garage, I might try to take it in the garage today if I go there to work on it today. Anyway, thanks for your quick responses. As far as figuring out this problem, would a faulty EGR cause some sort of problem? The tube had clogged once awhile back and they took it somewhere. All they did was clean out the tube and give it back and charge them way too much. Where should I start? Thanks again!
